Structural Test

Determine the condition of your hair!

Select a strand of hair - without stretching it - from the side of your head above the ears (make sure it represents the general condition of your hair).

1. Hold it between your thumb and forefinger. With your thumbnail and index finger of the other hand, run the distance of hair rapidly as you would curl a ribbon with scissors.

2. This will create a series of small curls.

3. Then gently hold the hair straight for 10 seconds and release.

4. If the hair completely, or almost completely returns to the curl pattern, it is in good condition. If it returns only 50% or less, the hair is structurally weak and will require reconditioning. —Under NO circumstances should any major salon services (permanent wave, color or TR) be given when the hair is in this range. It needs proper hair care and a network of protein to build strength and flexibility into hair to give it substance and resilience.

Understanding the structure and composition of hair contributes to an overall appreciation of reconditioning. Hair is a fibrous structure that consists of:

1. The Cortex, a spiral of proteins that forms the inner structure of hair.

2. The Cuticle, flat, hardened keratin protein that surrounds the cortex.

   Besides protein, water makes up most of the rest of hair's composition. A balance between protein and moisture is essential to healthy hair. When that balance is damaged by external elements, heat styling or excessive chemical services, hair needs reconditioning.

   Healthy Hair: The cuticle is smooth and the hair strand is compact, giving a shiny, healthy look.

   Split End		Healthy Hair Strand x100

   Split End: Inner cortex is frayed due to loss of cuticle. Brushing, heat styling, chemical processing and environmental factors can cause cuticle damage and split ends.

   Knotted Hair: Hair breaks more easily at points where it is knotted or twisted. Knots and twists are caused by excessive brushing, playing with hair, heat styling or wind exposure.

   
   Knotted Hair Strand magnifiedx100

   Healthy Hair: The cuticle is smooth and the hair strand is compact, giving a shiny, healthy look.

   
   Healthy Hair Strand x100

   Did you know hair grows approximately 1/2 inch per month? There are about 130,000 hairs on the average scalp.

   Q. If all hair is made up primarily of protein, why is everyone's hair so different?

   The answer to this question lies in three factors which affect hair:

   1. Heredity - The genes each person inherits determine many things about the makeup of hair, such as its color, shape and diameter.

   2. Environment - If it's rainy or humid, hair will absorb moisture from the air. This extra moisture will alter some of the chemical bonds that give hair its shape. Fine hair may become limp or curly hair may become frizzy. Other conditions, such as sun and wind may dry and damage hair. These conditions necessitate products that shield hair from elements of the environment.

   3. Products - Shampoos, conditioners, hair dryers, straightening and curling irons, hair color and texture services all affect the structural composition of the hair.