Introduction

The Science of Permanent Hair Straightening and Thermal Reconditioning which is also known as, Japanese Hair Straightening System / TR.

Permanent straightening is a method we use with increased frequency to transform our artistic vision based on the scientific approach into superior and striking hair designs. You know that it involves using chemical solutions to change the hair’s inner shape, to modify hair to a smoother shape, and add flexibility into a style. And you may be a bit wary of the process because it doesn’t always work.

TR procedure is fast becoming the hair straightening system of choice in high-profile salons and across the country. Chemical hair straightening/TR is a specialty field and the risk for damage is too great! Regardless of whether the salon is a reputable salon or not so reputable one must be very careful when choosing a stylist/salon as this process is very tricky and can give incredible results when done properly or damage the hair beyond belief if it’s done incorrectly. As long as the technician is very skilled in TR, you will not have a problem, or at least minimize the problem to a great extent.

My name is Steve Tcherkezian. I live and work in Toronto, Canada. I specialize in hair straightening and Thermal Reconditioning/TR. I also have a fair amount of knowledge in Trichoanalysis. Trichoanalysis is the scientific study of hair which allows a better understanding of the physical and microscopic properties of the hair keratin. Trichology is of paramount importance in chemical processing and caring for the hair. It is important to have an understanding of hair and its reaction to certain chemical processes. Fashion is passion, science is our strength. After all, when we stylists know the science behind our art (thioglycolate, disulfide bonds, oxidizers), there’s no limit to where our imagination can take us.

Thermal Reconditioning/TR a.k.a. Japanese Hair Straightening is a chemical process that will transform curly, wavy, frizzy hair into straight, shiny, silky and “frizz” free hair with little to no work required at home. Thermal Reconditioning chemically releases the protein bonds of the hair and restructures them with a meticulous flat ironing process. The results can be nothing short of life-changing: straight, glossy hair that is actually healthier after the treatment and requires precious little in terms of everyday styling or maintenance. If you try this astonishing process you will think it is some kind of magic! But, it is science. Does TR work? Yes it works with the right hair texture/condition. However, TR is not a panacea that works on every type of hair. Some TR recipients are ecstatic and cannot believe how great this scientific break through is, and some are not so happy.

To be sure, hair straightening/TR doesn’t always work! Hair is a very complex fiber; it’s like…we see the ocean but we really don’t know what’s on the other side of the ocean! I believe TR is very intensive, meticulous, particular, and it needs the stylists' utmost attention and care. This new technique also requires a lot of training.

Breaking the bonds, not the hair! First of all, we must understand that we’re using an alkaline thioglycolate solution on the hair. Therefore, like any other perm, the strength must be appropriate to the hair condition. Just like permanent waving, there is hair that shouldn’t be done to begin with, because of weakness and breakage.

The second thing to remember is that when the solution is on the hair it is breaking the cystine bonds, and the hair is in a weakened state and swollen. Excessive manipulation of the “swelled” weakened hair can cause breakage. Thirdly, the proximity of heat from the ceramic iron at 180 to 250 Celsius/356 to 482 degrees Fahrenheit can be too close for comfort, and mistakenly attack the hair follicle—permanently. If the heat is too high or is applied for too long at the root, you will permanently alter the hair—that means hair that’s frizzy and confused. Furthermore, the improper use of the flat iron could cause ridges “bend” and singe the hair, causing severe breakage.

What do I think are going to be the biggest problem with TR? Breakage from manipulation of the hair by stylists who think, “It looks easy”. Thermal Reconditioning is not a delicate process. It is also an unknown territory to most North American hairstylists. Unlike other chemical hair services such as color, bleach or highlights, chemical hair straightening can cause you to get a chemical hair cut in the hands of an untrained stylist. You certainly don't want to be part of a stylists “learning curve". I know it's not fun reading about the horror stories and it's really not fun having one of them happen to you.

TR beauty forums: A lot of people make a lot of claims on the boards. However, there are some restrictions. TR process might not be appropriate for everybody and some people should not have this process performed on their hair. I noticed that people book a TR appointment and then go to beauty forums and ask: ”How do I prepare my hair pre- TR? Do I pre-condition? Do I shampoo? Should I condition heavily in the morning? After the TR service, they ask: “How long should I wait before shampooing my hair”? If after booking an appointment you find yourself going to TR forums to find answers to these and other essential questions, it should indicate a pause! In fact, the answer and a detailed “Before TR” and “After TR” direction should be stipulated to you by your TR stylist at the time of booking and/or during the consultation.

Most of us TR specialists go in to TR forums and help answer some of your concerns. Nonetheless, there are many unwarranted answers by posters and stylists as well. I also noticed that the initial response from most TR recipients is overwhelming; their hair seems to be soft and shiny. However, after the first shampoo they complain about frizzy fried ends, 90 degree bends, breakage, bald spots, and not so shiny hair. I think there are many people out there who want learn more about hair straightening, and to get their hair straightened, but are a bit wary and afraid of the process because they had heard many horror hair straightening/TR stories.

Permanent hair straightening is a method we use to transform the hair to a smoother shape, and add flexibility into a style. Ultimately, the topic of chemical hair straightening is very complex and there is so much to learn about chemical hair straightening, relaxers and Thermal Reconditioning/TR that there are hairstylists who specialize only in this field. As these new hair straightening and TR service treatments become more popular, prescribing individual shampoo, and conditioning treatments will be the most popular service. Everyone is looking for what looks best on them or make them feel better, that is why every service and product will be customized to suit the customer’s needs.

The Interview with Hair is designed to take the mystery out of permanent hair straightening/TR. It is scientific. But it’s practical, too. It tells you what the permanent straightening chemicals actually do to the hair. It helps you troubleshoot problems. The Science of permanent straightening/TR is a sourcebook, a tool you can use to improve your understanding of the straightening process prior to the service and after the service and to prevent chemical hair straightening/TR misadventure and unfortunate hair accident. However, mistakes do happen - minor and major, and I think if a mistake happens, or about to happen, you’ll be armed with enough knowledge to ascertain and deal with the problem more effectively.