Hair Test (simplified version)

Hair test (simplified version)

Porosity test

Test the porosity of your hair. In order to test accurately for porosity, use three different areas: front hairline, in front of ears, and near the crown. Grasp small strands of dry hair and comb smoothly. Hold the ends firmly with the thumb and index finger of one hand and slide the fingers of the other hand from the ends towards the scalp. If the fingers do not slide easily, or if the hair ruffles up as your fingers slide down the stand, the hair is porous.

The more ruffles formed, the more porous is the hair. The less ruffles formed, the less porous is the hair. If the fingers slide easily and no ruffles are formed, the cuticle layer lays close to the hair shaft. This type of hair is least porous, is most resistant and will require a longer processing time.

Elasticity test

Test the elasticity of your hair. Hair elasticity is a very important factor to consider when giving a hair straightening/Thermal Reconditioning treatment. All hair is elastic, but its elasticity ranges from very good to poor. Hair with very good elasticity will produce resilient straightness. Hair with fairly good elasticity will produce slightly less than average resilient straightness. Hair with poor elasticity, also known as limp hair, will result in a very small amount of resiliency of straightness. If the keratin molecular make up exhibits above average percent elongation or elasticity (allowing the fibers to stretch too much) the hair will not be resilient. Under No circumstances should chemical services be given when the hair is in this range.

Hair will change its elasticity from time to time. Usually, porous hair loses its elasticity faster than non-porous hair. This change may be temporary due to humidity and temperature, the type of shampoo used, the amount of hair spray/gels used, and drying action of wind and sun.

Signs of poor elasticity: When the hair is wet, it feels spongy, limp, tangles easily and stretches excessively without returning to its normal position. The most common cause of this serious condition is chemical services such as color, highlight, permanent straightener/TR either given improperly or too often, or both. Elasticity damage can also be caused by brushing wet hair—stretching the hair beyond its limit. The elasticity qualities of hair will determine the rate of success in permanent hair straightening/TR.

Take a single dry hair and hold it between your thumb and forefinger of the other hand. Slowly stretch it between them. The further it can be stretched without breaking, the more elastic is the hair. If elasticity is good, the hair slowly contracts after stretching. Hair with poor elasticity will break quickly and easily when stretched. The hair must be acclimatized for 12 hours before running the test.

Structural test

Determine the condition of your hair!

Select a strand of hair – without stretching it – from the side of your head above the ears (make sure it represents the general condition of your hair).

Hair condition test step 1

Hold it between your thumb and forefinger. With your thumbnail and index finger of the other hand, run the distance of hair rapidly as you would curl a ribbon with scissors.

Hair condition test step 2

This will create a series of small curls.

Hair condition test 3

Then gently hold the hair straight for 10 seconds and release. Top

Hair condition test 4

If the hair completely or almost completely returns to the curl pattern, it is in good condition. If it returns only 50% or less, the hair is structurally weak and will require reconditioning. —Under NO circumstances should any major salon services (permanent wave, color or TR) be given when the hair is in this range. It needs proper hair care and a network of protein to build strength and flexibility into hair to give it substance and resilience.

Understanding the structure and composition of hair contributes to an overall appreciation of reconditioning. Hair is a fibrous structure that consists of:

  • The Cortex, a spiral of proteins that forms the inner structure of hair.
  • The Cuticle, flat, hardened keratin protein that surrounds the cortex.

Besides protein, water makes up most of the rest of hair’s composition. A balance between protein and moisture is essential to healthy hair. When that balance is damaged by external elements, heat styling or excessive chemical services, hair needs reconditioning.

Healthy Hair:

The cuticle is smooth and the hair strand is compact, giving a shiny, healthy look.


Split End:

Inner cortex is frayed due to loss of cuticle. Brushing, heat styling, chemical processing and environmental factors can cause cuticle damage and split ends.

Knotted Hair:

Hair breaks more easily at points where it is knotted or twisted. Knots and twists are caused by excessive brushing, playing with hair, heat styling or wind exposure.


Healthy Hair:

The cuticle is smooth and the hair strand is compact, giving a shiny, healthy look.


Q. Did you know hair grows approximately ½ inch per month?

A. There are about 130,000 hairs on the average scalp.

Q. If all hair is made up primarily of protein, why is everyone’s hair so different?

A. The answer to this question lies in three factors which affect hair:

    1. Heredity – The genes each person inherits determine many things about the makeup of hair, such as its color, shape and diameter.

    2. Environment – If it’s rainy or humid, hair will absorb moisture from the air. This extra moisture will alter some of the chemical bonds that give hair its shape. Fine hair may become limp or curly hair may become frizzy. Other conditions, such as sun and wind may dry and damage hair. These conditions necessitate products that shield hair from elements of the environment.

    3. Products – Shampoos, conditioners, hair dryers, straightening and curling irons, hair color and texture services all affect the structural composition of the hair.