Evaluation Process

Before getting your hair straightened/TR, perform hair and scalp evaluation. You should not get a chemical hair straightening service if the scalp has abrasions, cuts or irritation, to do so could further aggravate the situation and possibly cause infection. Do not straighten if you ever experienced an allergic reaction to perm solution or cosmetic products.

• Do not apply over metallic dyes (non peroxide dye). Metallic dyes contain metallic salts (lead, copper, or silver) that form a metallic residue on the hair which will react adversely to ammonium thioglycolate causing a green cast on the hair.
• Do not apply over henna compounds.
• Do not straighten hair that has been bleached or color treated exceeding 20 volume peroxide.

Make sure that the stylist is not using metal clips or metal rattail comb while giving a hair straightening/TR service, especially, on blonde hair. Do you have well water or spring water? If so, the hair may have a mineral scum on its surface, which may interfere with the straightening.

If you have problems with eczema, seborrheic dermatitis (oily, flaking, raised, reddened areas) or with psoriasis (dry, flaking, flattened reddened areas) it is recommended that no major salon services be given until the condition has been corrected and controlled by a physician.

Never, ever TR hair that has been relaxed with sodium hydroxide! Be sure you are always informed as to which chemical straightening ingredient product had been, or will be used on your hair. Ammonium thioglycolate, the chemical solution used for Thermal Reconditioning/TR will have a nasty reaction to sodium hydroxide. When mixed, the two chemicals will produce the same compound that we know as Nair!

Do not use thioglycolate/TR products on hair that has been previously straightened with sodium hydroxide base (lye), guanidine calcium hydroxide (No-lye), potassium hydroxide, or lithium hydroxide relaxer product. Regardless of this warning, you will find some stylists who’ll do just that! It’s not worth it.

What do I think are going to be the biggest problems with TR? Breakage from manipulation of the hair by stylists who think, “It looks easy”.

Unlike other chemical hair services such as color, bleach or highlights; Thermal Reconditioning can cause your hair to break in the hands of the wrong stylist. This technique requires a lot of training. The TR treatment isn’t the only variable—it’s the person doing it. The cost is not a guarantee of a good technician—the experience of the technician matters more.

People have enough problems with experienced hairdressers performing TR let alone a non-experienced stylist! If the heat is too high or is applied for too long at the root, you will permanently alter the hair—that means hair that’s frizzy and confused. If the heat is very high it will change the external hair fiber without a doubt, it will not be as strong as it originally was before the TR treatment. If the ironing is not angled properly, it could cause ridges “bend” and singe the hair causing severe breakage.

Don’t let an article in a fashion magazine, or a sign that says “We do Japanese Thermal Reconditioning” make you believe that they are good in doing TR. Be very careful when choosing a salon as this process is very tricky and can give incredible results when done properly or damage the hair beyond belief if done incorrectly. This new technique requires a lot of training. Make sure that the technician is very experienced and very skilled.

Don’t let your TR stylist do this! In his article on TR, the contributing TR stylist claims that “Very experienced TR techs will be able to process the new growth area of a previously sodium hydroxide relaxed client with great results. The process is very complicated and should only be attempted by a salon specializing in Thermal Reconditioning”.

Most recently the same stylist also said: “In the beginning it was not suggested that previously relaxed hair (sodium hydroxide) be Thermal Reconditioned, but iStraight and Liscio have both developed a system by which this is now possible. It is very tricky and there is a certain amount of risk to the procedure...we have found that for clients with very long hair, sodium hydroxide relaxed ends and 3 inch kinky roots Thermal Reconditioning has proven to be a lifesaver. For them to wait for the hair to grow out or to cut it all off is just not an option”.

I don’t believe that! Actually, it has nothing to do with experience, skill or the stylist’s specializing in TR. I'm sorry but I can't believe the other statements at all because if the bonds are gone, they are gone. Also, the process is not complicated and the chemistry is very simple: “sodium hydroxide and thioglycolate just don’t mix”!

Eventually you’ll need to cut it off anyway. If your hair had been treated with sodium hydroxide or guanidine hydroxide relaxers, the options are very clear; “Wait until all the hydroxide parts is grown out, or cut it off”. A strand test or coating the hydroxide relaxed sections with special proteins and treatments, will not accurately judge the reaction you will have. Quite often breakage of the hair due to the mixing of thioglycolate and hydroxide does not occur immediately, it may take a week or longer to start. Even if the hair doesn’t break, the results on the hydroxide treated area will not be outstanding.