Articles

Following are new and updated articles that contain a wealth of information on specific topics. These have now been added from the TR Forums to the main website due to their popularity.

• Japanese Hair Straightening/TR
  
  
• Meet YOUR Japanese Hair Straightening/TR stylist
  
  
• Meet the Brazilian Keratin Treatment and YOUR BKT Stylist
  
  
• Meet YOUR hair: A Closer look at hair through the microscope
  
  
• How to shampoo YOUR hair the right way
  
  
• Swimming: YOU wouldn't go in salt or chlorinated water without it.
  
  
• Blow-dryer, ceramic iron is a matter of personal preference
  
  
• Helping you understand hair-growth & hair-loss
  
  

Japanese Hair Straightening - Thermal Reconditioning/TR  
 
 
"Transform your curly, wavy, frizzy hair into – soft, silky, shiny, straight hair - Permanently!"  
 
It is permanent and will need to be re-touched every five to eight months; depending on the natural curl pattern and how quickly your hair grows. The first thing I do is consultation, it is complimentary (no charge, no obligation) and it takes about 45 minutes, during which I can tell you the exact cost. The start price I charge for Japanese Hair Straightening/Thermal Reconditioning/TR is $500. The average price I charge is about $750. It could be more; depending on hair length and abundance of hair. Abundance of hair, also known as density, is the amount of hair upon the head per square inch. We classify this as sparse, average, or thick (dense).  
 
Many women spend as long as an hour each morning blow-drying their hair straight. Japanese Thermal Reconditioning can transform even the most unruly, curly, and coarse hair into perfectly straight, silky, smooth, frizz free hair. With this new service, you can literally reduce styling to 5 to 10 minutes. For the first time a product has been developed to permanently transform the molecular structure of the hair shaft giving it a most luxurious youthful appearance. Japanese Hair Straightening/Thermal Reconditioning/TR flattens the hair’s cuticle layer to produce straight hair with ultra gloss shine, silky feel and movement. Eliminating frizz is a key benefit of the Japanese Thermal Reconditioning.  
 
The ideal candidate has “fairly healthy, chemically virgin hair, that is frizzy, coarse and at least five or six inches long”. Great candidates are the type of people who generally have to spend hours blow-drying and straightening their hair every day just to get it to look decent. After Thermal Reconditioning, you will spend less time to blow-dry and style your hair. Clients with chin length or longer hair will get best long term results.  
 
Unfortunately most women have some type of chemicals applied to their hair before they decide to opt for a TR. While some stylists will apply the treatment to fragile or damaged hair, generally it will not respond well to the treatment and the hair may not withstand the chemicals and the excessive heat from the irons.  
 
Do not have unrealistic expectations that TR would give everyone the straight, silky, wash-and-wear freedom. Each person who has the treatment will experience different results. The TR treatment works best on unprocessed, virgin hair with a loose wave/curl pattern that starts two-to-three inches from the scalp. If the curl pattern is twisted, corkscrew-like or overly curly, it will not take well and may not be as effective.  
 
Not a Cure-All. Not all hair types can or should receive Thermal Reconditioning. Unfortunately there will probably be stylists out there who are going to do it for the wrong reasons. Previously color, highlight treated hair may experience problems like, reversion, breakage and dryness, especially if it is bleach treated. Some may complain that their hair feels more like straw than silk. The very best candidates have virgin hair that has not ever been color or processed in any way.  
 
Wash and wear look or polished look? After TR all you need to do is finger blow-dry the hair. For polished look, quickly slide the iron on the hair in big sections (3-5 minutes) and the hair will look polished and stays straight and frizz-free.
 
Japanese Thermal Reconditioning/TR will offer immediate savings to all those forced to spend their time and money each week in such a time-consuming manner. With this system, you can have the perfectly straight hair you’ve always dreamed about. When selecting a product you want assurance and knowledge-especially when dealing with permanent hair straightening. It is absolutely important that you select a stylist and a product with proven history of customer satisfaction.  
 
For those of you who are potential clients, you need to use your investigative skills and really understand the difference between a good job and a "so-so" job....Japanese Hair Straightening/TR is NOT about leap of faith or a reputable salon or a stylist who is very nice. Allowing a bunch of well-intentioned hairdressers to learn how to do TR will eventually cause many problems and cause irreversible damage to the hair and hair follicle. The stylist's skill, experience and knowledge in The Science of Permanent Hair Straightening is of the greatest and most important cardinal rule in doing the job right.  
 
Cosmetic procedures such as TR, do not damage the hair follicle within the scalp, and so do not cause hair loss. Only a serious chemical burn to the skin of the scalp that destroys the follicle cells can do so. Burns like this can follow indiscriminate over-use of permanent hair straightening solutions, and therefore these solutions must be handled carefully at all times. But take an enthusiastic amateur embarking on bleaching and doing a TR without any basic knowledge or experience, and combine this with a hair dryer used on its hottest setting and a flat iron set at 200°C (392°F) - you have a recipe for disaster!

Whether or not a TR will 'take' well depends on the basic nature of the hair, its past history of chemical treatments, if any, and the skill of the technician or stylist. Hair that has had a long history with tinting or bleaching may have become so damaged as to be near the limit of what it will tolerate.

TR products by its nature, disrupts the structure of the hair: it has to do so for the TR perm to be successful. In order to change the shape of the hair, TR perm solutions first break the disulfide bonds that give the hair shaft its structure. The hair is then put into its new shape and 'neutralized'. Neutralization reforms the chemical bonds in their new positions; a process that fixes the hair permanently into its new shape.

The secrets of satisfactory TR lie in the manufacturer's formulation of the product and the stylist's expertise in choosing the right strength, applying the neutralizing lotion after just the right length of time and rinsing, so that the perm TR is fixed but the hair is damaged as little as possible.
 
So, does TR work for everybody? Yes, it works with the right hair texture/condition. If the curl pattern is too twisted, it’s not effective. Remember it was invented in Japan where the hair isn't exactly curly. The tighter your natural curl is, the less dramatic the result is. Japanese Hair Straightening/TR service is best done on virgin hair, with excellent results. The service can be performed on previously color treated hair, or hair that has had minimal chemical treatments such as bleaching services. For a woman who is blow-drying her hair straight every day, the investment in time may be worth it. Once you experience the ease of styling, you'll never go back to blow drying your hair straight with a brush every morning. Japanese Hair Straightening/ Thermal Reconditioning/TR leaves the hair completely without curl. To style, you can simply finger-blow dry and quickly smooth out with a flat iron for silky shiny tresses. Touch-up applications on the re-growth is necessary every 6 to 9 months; depending on the natural curl pattern of your hair.  
 
What do I think are going to be the biggest problems with Japanese Hair Straightening/TR? Breakage from manipulation of the hair by stylists who think – “It looks easy”.
 
First of all, stylists must understand that they are using an alkaline thioglycolate solution (cream) on the hair. Therefore, like any other perm, the strength must be appropriate to the hair condition. Just like perming, there is hair that shouldn’t be straightened because of weakness, breakage, etc. The second thing to remember is that when that cream is on the hair, it is breaking bonds and the hair is in a weakened state. Excessive manipulation of the “swelled” weakened hair can cause breakage.  
 
I think that you need to take the time and conduct interviews. There are many ways to find a skilled TR technician. You wouldn’t want a video trained TR stylist or a stylist without the ability to troubleshoot, especially with hair that has already been TRd. This can make all the difference in the outcome. Second, you wouldn’t want two or three stylists working on your hair to do a TR! The job will be done in less than half the time it takes to do a TR, but along comes the potential risk of a botched TR. TR is a very delicate process. I do not delegate a delicate process such a TR by allowing 2-3 stylists working on ONE head of hair. I start the job and I finish it all by myself.  
 
Curly hair faces very specific challenges – dryness, tangle and frizz. Many clients find their curls unruly, unmanageable and often unpredictable; they want softness, natural looking, definition with touchability and absolutely no frizz.  
 
Reach new heights! Create modern hair that is soft, natural looking, glamorous and with incredible Beauty...Beauty Through Science - The Scientific Approach to curly, frizzy, difficult to manage hair. A NEW look to multiply your options. Ignite shine...eliminate frizz...turn up texture...The possibilities are endless. But clients forget that Japanese TRd hair behaves best with products that had been specifically formulated to address its specific needs. When working with TRd hair, remember hair specific hair care products is not an option, but absolute necessity.  
 
Reinvent! Japanese Hair Straightening technology has always been superior. You can create new technology but there is no consistency in the technology. The stylist doing a Japanese Hair Straightening/TR must have a great deal of experience and much skill, and know how to USE it. I learn my technology prior to letting it go out and you can always see it in the hair. The healthiest hair that walks is always Japanese TRd hair by Steve Tcherkezian.  
 
The first thing to do is to have a little understanding of a "Hair" and "Japanese Hair Straightening/TR". To learn more, visit my Website http://www.verticalsinhair.com There is a link on the right hand side, just click on it and it will take you directly to my TR Forum – It is a whole NEW horizons! Take a tour, read people's questions and my replies; it is scientific, but it’s practical, too. It is a sourcebook, a tool you can use to improve your understanding of the hair and Japanese Hair Straightening/Thermal Reconditioning/TR.
 
There is another “NEW” technology in hair straightening and it is called "Brazilian Keratin Treatment/BKT". The BKT works incredibly great for people where the structural stability of their hair is weak and damaged, due to bleach and highlight. These same people may not be a good candidate for a TR, but okay for BKT. Read my article Subject: "Meet the Brazilian and your Brazilian BKT stylist" http://www.verticalsinhair.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=Messages;actio n=display;num=1219800554  
 
As far as treatment with heat and keratin; it can make damaged hair feel silky again, but as you know, nothing actually re-creates the hair fiber but fills in the damaged areas. Bleached hair "sets" better than normal hair as the matrix proteins have already been made more pliable by bleaching. In this case, the heat of the iron and formalin do cross-link the hair proteins as well as polymerizing the formalin. This make a silky feel on the hair and a straight result that slowly reverts back. Brazilian Keratin Treatment/BKT is not permanent, the results lasts about 2-4 months. I have clients from all walks of life. My expanse and my experience in working with curly, unruly, difficult to manage hair is large. I have different solutions for different hair types, textures and conditions of hair. The start price I charge for Brazilian Keratin Treatment/BKT is $350. The average price I charge is about $450. It could be more; depending on hair length and abundance of hair.
 
Hey, my name is Steve Tcherkezian, I am in Greater Toronto Area, I specialize in all methods of permanent hair straightening and I am here to introduce you to the latest in hair straightening, Japanese Hair Straightening/Thermal Reconditioning/TR. It's the hotter, sexier alternative to the old way of straightening the hair. NOW you have the option to have straight, soft, silky and frizz-free hair with little work required by you at-home.  
 
Make doubly sure to read my new articles:  
 
Meet Your Hair! Beauty through Science http://www.verticalsinhair.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=Messages;actio n=display;num=1218831584 Or visit "Steve's Corner" and look under "NEW 2009 articles" http://www.verticalsinhair.com/intro.shtml
 
How to shampoo your hair the right way http://www.verticalsinhair.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=Messages;actio n=display;num=1219580621 Or visit "Steve's Corner" and look under "NEW 2009 articles" http://www.verticalsinhair.com/intro.shtml  
 
Meet your Japanese Hair Straightening/TR stylist http://www.verticalsinhair.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=Messages;actio n=display;num=1223504926;start=0#0 Or visit "Steve's Corner" and look under "NEW 2009 articles" http://www.verticalsinhair.com/intro.shtml
 
Meet the Brazilian Keratin and your BKT stylist http://www.verticalsinhair.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=Messages;actio n=display;num=1219800554 Or visit "Steve's Corner" and look under "NEW 2009 articles" http://www.verticalsinhair.com/intro.shtml
 
 
Here is some of MY TR works! The purpose I am posting so many photos, is to give you an idea of the different condition, type and textures of hair that I work with to do a Japanese Hair Straightening/TR. I hope this has helped you in some way, good luck! Steve
 

Client 1 - Before Japanese Hair Straightening/TR.
 
 

Client 1 - After Japanese Hair Straightening/TR.
 
 

Client 1 - After Japanese Hair Straightening/TR...Incredibly soft, silky, smooth.
 
 

Client 1 - Reach new heights! Create modern hair that is soft, natural looking and glamorous...After Japanese Hair Straightening/TR.
 
 

Client 2 - Before Japanese Hair Straightening/TR
 
 

Client 2 - After Japanese Hair Straightening/TR...Satiny, silky smooth hair.
 
 

Client 3 - Blow-dried hair with a brush, before Japanese Hair Straightening/TR.
 
 

Client 3 - Wet hair. Before Japanese Hair Straightening/TR. If a TR stylist can take a hair like this...
 
 

Client 3 - Wet hair. Before Japanese Hair Straightening/TR. If a TR stylist can take a hair like this...
 
 

...and transform it to this...Then he must be good! Incredible Beauty! Client 3 - After Japanese Hair Straightening/TR
 
 

Client 3 - Magic! Total Beauty...Beauty Through Science. After Japanese Hair Straightening/ TR...Once we own the information, we don't even have to think about the fundamentals, the mechanics or the disciplines. It's not that we don't utilize them; it's that we don't have to THINK about them. We use them instinctively. When we own the information, we automatically do it correctly. This is when we can truly be creative. Whether it's Michael Jordan sinking a basket, Albert Einstein theorizing a new mathematical equation or Leonardo Da Vinci creating a new masterpiece, they don't think about the text book way they learned to do their craft, they just do it!
 
 

Client 4 - Before Japanese Hair Straightening/TR.
 
 

Client 4 - Before Japanese Hair Straightening/TR.
 
 

Client 4 - Irresistibly touchable! After Japanese Hair Straightening/TR.  
 
 

Client 5 - Before TR
 
 

Client 5 - After Japanese Thermal Reconditioning/TR
 
 

Client 5 - It's ME, Steve, after doing Japanese Hair Straightening
 
 

Client 6 - Before TR
 
 

Client 6 - After TR
 
 

Client 7 - Before TR. Most people think that Japanese women have straight hair. That's not true. Here is an example of what the majorities of Japanese women hair look-like.
 
 

Client 7 - Before TR. Once again, here's is what most Japanese women hair look-like. It is wavy, has different wave undulation pattern to it with natural-bends and a rugged, bumpy surface
 
 

Client 7 - After TR. Permanently resurfaced and smoothened - silk-like cuticle
 
 

Client 7 - After TR. Feather-light, irresistably touchable-hair!
 
 

Client 8 - Before TR. The client's front section is a bit wavy, but for the most part it is straight. However, the cuticles are bumpy and her hair has a rough texture. Japanese Hair Straightening will resurface the cuticles and make it soft, shiny and silky looking.
 
 

Client 8 - Before TR. Notice the slight bit of wave/cow-lick around the front hair-line, but as I said, for the most part, the client's hair is straight. Her hair line has a stubborn wave/cow-lick.
 
 

Client 8 - Noticeable difference, ya? You can actually see the diameter of her hair is incredibly much smoother and much silkier - it's feather-like!
 
 

Client 9 - Before TR.
 
 

Client 9 - After TR.
 
 

Client 10 - Before Japanese Hair Straightening/Thermal Reconditioning/TR
 
 

Client 10 - Before Japanese Hair Straightening/Thermal Reconditioning/TR
 
 

Client 10 - After Japanese Hair Straightening/Thermal Reconditioning/TR
 
 
 
Client 10 - After Japanese Hair Straightening/Thermal Reconditioning/TR
 
 
 
Client 10 - After Japanese Hair Straightening/Thermal Reconditioning/TR
 
 

Client 11 - Before Japanese Hair Straightening/Thermal Reconditioning/TR
 
 

Client 11 - After Japanese Hair Straightening/Thermal Reconditioning/TR
 
 

Client 12 - Before Japanese Hair Straightening/Thermal Reconditioning/TR
 
 

Client 12 - Before Japanese Hair Straightening/Thermal Reconditioning/TR
 
 

Client 12 - After Japanese Hair Straightening/Thermal Reconditioning/TR
 
 

Client 13 - Before Japanese Hair Straightening/Thermal Reconditioning/TR
 
 

Client 13 - After Japanese Hair Straightening/Thermal Reconditioning/TR
 
 

Client 14 - Before Japanese Hair Straightening/Thermal Reconditioning/TR
 
 

Client 14 - Before Japanese Hair Straightening/Thermal Reconditioning/TR
 
 

Client 14 - After Japanese Hair Straightening/Thermal Reconditioning/TR. Her color/highlight treated hair didn't look nice after TR, so I color treated her hair immediately after TR: using Redken Shades EQ 04NB and 06NB and 03A Terra Cota. As you can see, her hair looks healthier and the hair color looks incredibly beautiful!  
 
 

Client 14 - After Japanese Hair Straightening/Thermal Reconditioning/TR. Her color/highlight treated hair didn't look nice after TR, so I color treated her hair immediately after TR. I used Redken Shades EQ 04NB and 06NB and 03A Terra Cota. As you can see, her hair looks healthier and the hair color looks incredibly beautiful!  
 
 

Client 15 - Before Japanese Hair Straightening/Thermal Reconditioning/TR
 
 

Client 15 - After Japanese Hair Straightening/Thermal Reconditioning/TR
 
 

Client 16 - Before Japanese Hair Straightening/Thermal Reconditioning/TR
 
 

Client 16 - After Japanese Hair Straightening/Thermal Reconditioning/TR
 
 

Client 17 - Before Japanese Hair Straightening/Thermal Reconditioning/TR
 
 

Client 17- After Japanese Hair Straightening/Thermal Reconditioning/TR
 

Client 18 - Before Japanese Hair Straightening/Thermal Reconditioning/TR
 

Client 18 - After Japanese Hair Straightening/Thermal Reconditioning/TR
 

Client 19 - Before Japanese Hair Straightening/Thermal Reconditioning/TR
 

Client 19 - After Japanese Hair Straightening/Thermal Reconditioning/TR
 

Client 20 - Before Japanese Hair Straightening/Thermal Reconditioning/TR
 

Client 20 - After Japanese Hair Straightening/Thermal Reconditioning/TR
 
 

This is DTH - Diana Tcherkezian Haddad, my daughter. Before Japanese Hair Straightening/TR
 
 

This is Diana Tcherkezian Haddad, my daughter. Before Japanese Hair Straightening/TR. It's been 7 or 8 years since I started doing TR on her hair, but until today, she keeps telling me: "No, that's not me, that's not my hair". So then, I show all of her "before and after" TR photos on my laptop. She still cannot believe it is her hair, but it is!
 
 

This is Diana Tcherkezian Haddad, my daughter. After Japanese Hair Straightening/TR
 
 

This is Diana Tcherkezian Haddad, my daughter. After Japanese Hair Straightening/TR
 
 

This is TTT - Taline Tcherkezian Torres, my daughter. Before Japanese Hair Straightening/TR
 
 

This is TTT - Taline Tcherkezian Torres, my daughter. Before Japanese Hair Straightening/TR
 
 

This is TTT - Taline Tcherkezian Torres, my daughter. After Japanese Hair Straightening/TR
 
 

This is TTT - Taline Tcherkezian Torres, my daughter. After Japanese Hair Straightening/TR
 
 

This is TTT - Taline Tcherkezian Torres, my daughter. After Japanese Hair Straightening/TR
 
Trichonalysis: A system of hair analysis to give the professional TR stylist, trichologist and trichoanalyst a better understanding of the physical and microscopic properties of hair keratin.
 
 

Trichoscope and Trichogram.
 
The Trichoscope is a specially constructed microscope that magnifies the hair up to 200 x (times). It produces plane polarized light for retardation color analysis of the competency and the shape of hair fibers.
 
The Trichogram is a scientific tool that is used to help determine the hair’s structural competency specifically its strength and its elasticity. The typical evaluation from a Trichogram has two points of interest: the yield point and the break point.
 
The Trichogram is an invaluable tool, it exhibits the strength and % elongation of hair and according to the hair’s diameter in microns. A typical curve from a Trichogram has basically two points of interest: yield point and break point.
 
The alpha helical coils of the keratin can be stretched up to the yield point and will still return to their natural resting state like a spring which is pulled and then allowed to return to its original position. This yield point is the point at which the Grams in Force (the hair’s strength according to its diameter) is measured. It defines the resistance of the hair to deformation by force. This is, in effect, a measurement of the strength of the fiber. In the post yield region of the curve, the helical coils have been deformed and can no longer return to their original shape. This would be like pulling the spring beyond its capacity. The springs can no longer return to its original or natural state.  
 
Breakpoint is the point at which the helical coils have been pulled to their capacity and break apart. At this point, the hair has been stretched a certain percentage of its original length, and the measurement is called percent Elongation (elasticity) of the fiber and defines the pliability of the hair.  
 
All of this stress-strain information should also be used to help determine the risk of using TR, bleach/highlight or other potentially damaging reactive cosmetics on any given head of hair.
 
The hair must exhibit a certain number in Grams in Force (strength) according to its diameter in microns and % Elongation (elasticity) to be considered as average or above average keratin structure. All of this stress-strain information is used to determine the risk of using permanent TR bleach/highlight or other potentially damaging reactive cosmetics on any given head of hair. Otherwise, if the hair exhibits below average keratin structure, then you shouldn't be getting a TR. You need to wait until your stylist can bring your hair to average keratin structure.
 
 

The selection of hair samples is extremely important in the overall results of Trichoanalysis. Since all cosmetic treatments are based on the results of the analysis, the hair samples taken must be representative of the entire head of hair. Samples should never be taken from an area which will be cut or trimmed, no matter how damaged the hair may be. In such a case, I would be analyzing damage that no longer remains a problem to the overall condition of the client’s hair, thus receiving useless results. Keep in mind that we are selecting a "very small" group of hairs to represent a "very large" group of hairs, and for all results to be valid, the results I take"must" be representative.  
 
 

Hair magnified 200x times
 
In analyzing retardation color variations in the cortical structure, they should be examined in relationship to force in grams for the same diameter hair. Retardation color is usually measured in millimicrons. The physical characteristics of this phenomenon are seen as variations in perceptible color. For example:  
 
* Green center color shows above average keratin structure.  
* Blue center color shows a slightly above average structure.  
* Magenta shows an average structure.  
* And Yellow shows a below average keratin structure of the cortex.  
 
Typically, highly compact hair tends to show a higher order of retardation color. When lower order colors appear, this may be due to disordering of the structure which appears less compact.  
 
Also, the larger the diameter of the hair, the higher the order of color will appear. For example, in viewing a single hair shaft, when viewing through the thickest central part, it may appear green: but if viewed through a thinner section, it may appear blue, green, magenta or even yellow.  
 
If a yellow retardation center color appears in an otherwise homogeneous magenta, the hair keratin will break more readily at the yellow portion. A slight disordering in the hair structure can be remedied by topically applied cosmetic reconditioning treatments and maintained on a regular reconditioning schedule before a total structural breakdown occurs.
 
 

Hair magnified 200x times
 
 
 
Hair magnified 200x times
 
 

Trichoanalysis Chart - Trichoanalysis is a system of hair analysis. It gives the professional Japanese Hair Straightening/TR stylist a better understanding of the physical and microscopic properties of hair keratin. There are 3 Trichoanalysis evaluation charts, Caucasian, Oriental and Sub-Saharan Africa charts.  
 
The Trichoanalysis Chart - It defines the strength of the hair in Grams in Force and its % Elongation. This is the test I run during the consultation using the Trichogram (a scientific tool that determines the structural strength, stability and the elasticity of the hair). The Trichogram results will exhibit to the TR stylist the structural stability of the hair.
 
 
In Summary: Trichoanalysis is a Scientific Hair Analysis System To Study Hair.
 
Healthy hair requires an ideal balance between elasticity and tensil strength.
   
1. A Trichogram stretches a single hair strand until it breaks. It measures both elasticity and tensile strength (break point).
   
a. Hair with high elasticity and low tensile strength tends to be limp and lifeless, and lacks body and structure.
 
b. Hair with high tensile strength and low elasticity tends to be dry, brittle and breaks or splits easily.
 
2. A Trichograph shows an on screen ultra-sound color picture of the hair strand, it’s diameter, cuticle layers, the cortex and center core; the medula.
   
a. Hair damage caused by chemical treatments vividly shows up as breakdowns in these layers,
 
b. For example; the entire medulla may be missing or there may be no cuticles left at all. The medullary canal is a hollow shaft or partially hollow shaft which appears in some hair strands. It seems to have no effect with regards to the strength of the hair, but its presence or absence can alter the way in which the hair fiber interacts with light. The intermittent dark lines that you see in the center of the pictures above, are what we refer to as the "medulla".
 
Armed with the language, we educate ourselves on certain subjects where we learn the fundamentals and disciplines related to hair. When we find a subject appealing, we want to learn more than just the basics, more than the fundamentals. We learn the disciplines – the proper mechanics. And we discipline ourselves to do it correctly. In essence, in order to master the subject, we do whatever it takes to own the information.

So, you say to yourself: “Where do I go from here?” I understand the language, and now I know how to take better care and to create beautiful hair, based on hair that is in optimum condition…simple, isn’t it?

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Meet YOUR Japanese Hair Straightening/TR stylist  
 
Hey, my name is Steve Tcherkezian, I am in Toronto (GTA), I specialize in all methods of permanent hair straightening and I am here to introduce you to the latest in hair straightening, Japanese Hair Straightening/ Thermal Reconditioning/TR. It's the hotter, sexier alternative to the old way of straightening the hair. NOW you have the option to have straight, soft, silky and frizz-free hair with little work required by you at-home.  
 
Inform. Involve. Inspire.  Beauty Through Science:  The Scientific Approach to Japanese Hair Straightening/ Thermal Reconditioning/TR.
 
As stylists, we are artists who use hair as our medium.  We mold it, color it, cut it and TR it to give it light and movement.  To make it respond to our imagination.  
 
Japanese Hair Straightening/TR is a method we use with increased frequency to transform our artistic visions into striking hair designs.  You've no doubt heard or have had some first hand experience with Japanese Hair Straightening.  You know that it involves using chemical solutions to change the hair's inner shape, to make it straight, frizz-free and put movement and volume into a style.  You may also know some of the science behind Japanese Hair Straightening_thioglycolate, disulfide bonds, oxidizers.  And you may be a bit wary of the process because of the horror stories you have heard.  
 
This article and my website http://www.verticalsinhair.com was designed to help take the mystery out of Japanese Hair Straightening/TR.  It is scientific.  But it’s practical, too.  It tells you what the perming Japanese Hair Straightening actually do to the hair. And it takes you through the chemistry of Japanese Hair Straightening/TR step by step, to supplement - NOT replace - the importance of choosing the Japanese Hair Straightening/TR stylist.  
 
The Science of Permanent Japanese Hair Straightening is your sourcebook, a tool you can use to improve your understanding of the TR process, to gain confidence in getting a TR.    
 
Meet YOUR Japanese Hair Straightening/Thermal Reconditioning/TR Stylist!  
 
TR is NOT about leap of faith or a reputable salon or a stylist who is very nice.  Allowing a bunch of well-intentioned hairdressers to do TR will eventually cause irreversible damage to the hair and follicle.  The stylist's skill and experience and understanding the Science of Permanent Japanese Hair Straightening, is very important.  When we TR techs own the information, we automatically do it correctly.  This is when we can truly be creative.  Whether it's Michael Jordan sinking a basket, Albert Einstein theorizing a new mathematical equation or Leornardo Da Vinci creating a new masterpiece, they don't think about the text book way they learned to do their craft, they just do it.  After all, when we stylists know the science behind our art, there is no limit to where our imagination can take us.    
 
Cosmetic procedures such as TR, do not damage the hair follicle within the scalp, and so do not cause hair loss. Only a serious chemical burn to the skin of the scalp that destroys the follicle cells can do so. Burns like this can follow indiscriminate over-use of permanent hair straightening solutions, and therefore these solutions must be handled carefully at all times. But take an enthusiastic amateur embarking on bleaching and doing a TR without any basic knowledge or experience, and combine this with a hair dryer used on its hottest setting and a flat iron set at 180°C, you have a recipe for disaster.  
 
When people actually lose their hair it is my opinion that the follicle is damaged through excessive pulling and traction as well as the chemical depilatory action of softening the hair with thioglycolate. Depilatories like Neet or Nair are based on thio and these thio containing TR products should never be applied to the scalp. We know that hair grows back after a depilatory so there must be other action on the follicle. I suspect it's a combination of the longer time on the hair, the traction and perhaps the heat increasing penetration.  
 
When a stylist is armed with knowledge about hair and chemicals, it makes a big difference in getting a “good TR” or a “botched TR”. In order to know how TR works, it is important to have an understanding of hair and its reaction to certain chemical processes. It is also important to have an understanding of how water and the pH scale affect the hair and chemicals used on the hair. It is this extra step that has moved some TR stylists from the era of "apply, hope and pray it turns out okay" to the era of "science" _ the Scientific Approach to Beauty.
 
Today's consumer is faced with much technical information which may be confusing. Many judgments are made based on emotion, misinformation, or hearsay on TR message boards, rather than sound facts. TR is not simply a mixture of ingredients. Ten different cooks can mix eggs, flour, milk, sugar and shortening and arrive at ten different cakes, some of which would be inedible. TR should be judged on how it performs, its safety, ease of use, elegance, and the professional TR stylist that stands behind it.
 
Japanese Hair Straightening, also known as Thermal Reconditioning/TR. Basically the technology is thioglycolate/dithioglycolate in a cream form to “relax” the curl pattern. After sufficient relaxation has taken place, the cream is rinsed from the hair and the hair is dried at least enough to use the iron. Please note that there are usually a number of treatments/shampoo/conditioners etc. that accompany various systems. Very small sections are then “ironed” by “clicking the iron open and shut” through each section twice or three times. This can take a couple of hours for long hair. The hair is then oxidized with bromate (most Japanese systems) or peroxide (other systems) dried and ironed again. The temperature ranges from 150°C – 200°C depending on the hair condition.  
 
First of all, stylists must understand that they are using an alkaline thioglycolate solution (cream) on the hair. Therefore, like any other perm, the strength must be appropriate to the hair condition. Just like perming, there is hair that shouldn’t be straightened because of weakness, breakage, etc. The second thing to remember is that when that cream is on the hair, it is breaking bonds and the hair is in a weakened state. Excessive manipulation of the “swelled” weakened hair can cause breakage.
 
Hair porosity. The hair has different porosity levels, some sections have higher porosity levels, absorbing and retaining chemicals more quickly, therefore, a pre-treatment, such as PPT and other treatments is applied to the hair. If the hair is highlight treated, the TR stylist must do further protection to help even penetration (porosity levels) of the thio solution. Otherwise, the weaker highlighted sections will process quickly and becomes over-processed and eventually the hair will break.  
 
I am sure you heard of "bends" after TR. There are two ways that bends can occur near the root area during the TR process; the chemical was applied to the scalp or the hair was ironed in the wrong direction. If there are bends left on your hair shaped like an "L" noticeable right after TR; it means the hair was miss-ironed.  
 
If the hair is straight but bends appear with new-growth; it means the chemical was applied to the scalp. You get a "crimp" in your straight hair right at the roots and will be noticeable as a prickly small bump in the areas where the chemical touched the scalp. As you probably know, solution that has seeped onto the scalp is the primary, though not the only cause of hair breakage. This type of bend is known as "reduction" (Permanent reduction is defined as the long-term, stable reduction in the number of hairs re-growing).  

 
Here is a photo of a "bend" caused bad ironing technique.
 

 
Hair "bends" is another form of hair breakage. They start as cracks in the cuticle which eventually deepen and break or “fray” the cortical bundles. If bends are attempted to be removed, it needs to be done chemically and thermally. The problem is it will increase the chances of damage and the hair becomes completely frayed. It is to your advantage to chose a skilled TR stylist that understands the science behind their art.  
 
Ironing techniques: As I said, there are only two ways that bends can occur near the root area during the TR process, the chemical was applied to the scalp or the hair was ironed in the wrong direction. It is the heat and method of pressing the hair with thermal iron that helps restructure the hair bonds and give the hair the desired look. This process also irons the “style” into the hair permanenly. It is like cosmetic surgery.
 
Frankly, the ironing process is not easy. It takes considerable skill and patience. The hair has to be ironed at a correct degree angle in 1/4inch (thickness) sections. The ironing on each panel has to be in the direction of hair growth, which is usually a 90 degree angle. Otherwise, if you notice bends left on your hair shaped like an "L" (see "bend hair" photo above) right after TR; it means the hair was miss-ironed. And if the hair is straight but bends appear with re-growth; it means the chemical was applied to the scalp. Moreover, it is important that you do NOT feel the heat of the iron on the scalp during the ironing.
 
What do I think are going to be the biggest problems? Breakage from manipulation of the hair by stylists who think "it looks easy". Doing this process on hair that shouldn’t be done to begin with. Choosing the wrong strength and odor in the hair from poor rinsing.

TR products by its nature, disrupts the structure of the hair: it has to do so for the TR perm to be successful. In order to change the shape of the hair, TR perm solutions first break the disulfide bonds that give the hair shaft its structure. The hair is then put into its new shape and 'neutralized'. Neutralization reforms the chemical bonds in their new positions; a process that fixes the hair permanently into its new shape.

Whether or not a TR will 'take' well depends on the basic nature of the hair, its past history of chemical treatments, if any, and the skill of the technician or stylist. Hair that has had a long history with tinting or bleaching may have become so damaged as to be near the limit of what it will tolerate.

The secrets of satisfactory TR lie in the manufacturer's formulation of the product and the stylist's expertise in choosing the right strength, applying the neutralizing lotion after just the right length of time and rinsing, so that the perm TR is fixed but the hair is damaged as little as possible.
 
A TR stylist who has more experience with mistakes know their basics so well that they can make a magic. Lets face it…Picasso could do more with 3 broken crayons than the average man could with a palate of the finest paint. And by the way, some salons use two or maybe three stylists to do a TR. This helps them to do it much faster. You wouldn't let two or three stylists cutting/coloring or doing highlight on your hair, why would you allow more than one stylist to do a critical job like a TR!  
 
TR is a chemical process; experience plays a major role in the choice of hair TR stylist. A stylist who is now performing Thermal Reconditioning should already have had an experience with sodium hydroxide (lye) relaxer method and "Cold" (old technology) thioglycolate hair straightening method. The stylist should know how to work with every hair type and every type of hair problem and know how to trouble-shoot. We are talking about putting your hair in the hands of a stylist that give your hair that present curly look and restructuring the bonds so the hair that is treated will be permanently straight. That means, we talking about the structural stability of your hair.  
 
This section was designed to help take the mystery of meeting and evaluating your TR stylist during the consultation.  You’ve no doubt have first hand information as to whether your hair shape is a good candidate for TR.  Normally, the TR stylist will offer a free preliminary consultation.  It is important that all questions about your health, previous chemical processes be answered carefully.  Get at least 3 consultations from 3 different salons.  Consultation should take about 30 to 45 minutes.  After the TR consultation and if you are a good candidate for TR, the stylist should give you “Guideline for before and after TR”.  
 
The consultation is very important because some hair type will respond well to the procedure and others will not.  Some Biracial clients seem to have softer curls, so it may be recommended.  Remember TR was invented in Japan where the hair isn’t exactly curly.  For a woman who is blow-drying her hair straight every day, the investment in time/money may be worth it.  
 
The consultation is quite important because some hair type will respond well to the procedure and others will not. Some Biracial clients seem to have softer curls, so it may be recommended. Remember TR was invented in Japan where the hair isn’t exactly curly. For a woman who is blow-drying her hair straight every day, the investment in time/money may be worth it.
 
There are many degrees of curliness/texture within hair type. Generally, tightly coiled, tightly curled African hair type is not a good candidate for TR. On the other hand, milder, softer African hair types may react quite well.
 
Curly hair faces very specific challenges – dryness, tangle and frizz. Many clients find their curls unruly, unmanageable and often unpredictable; they want softness, natural looking, definition with touchability and absolutely no frizz. Improper manipulation of these characteristic twists and turns in the tightly curled hair shaft can be more stressful to excessively curly hair than straight hair.  
 
As we look deeper into the hair shaft, we see two vitally important layers - the cuticle and the cortex. Each layer performs a separate yet interdependent function. When properly understood and carefully manipulated, these layers work together to create healthy, shiny, resilient TR results.  
 
On the right type of hair the results of TR can be beautiful and inspiring for the person wearing the style. People with naturally curly hair will be relieved that they do not have to blow dry and iron their hair every morning. The technique is as important as the chemicals. I strongly recommend you go to an experienced trained professional stylist; someone who understands the chemical reaction on various types of hair.
 
Before You Jump!!! Be Sure you’re Prepared.
 
TR is not suitable for all types of hair. During the consultation, the TR stylist will explain to you the benefits of TR when used in the right situation for the right type of hair. You need to know a little bit about your hair so that you can evaluate the TR stylist’s recommendation. Otherwise, you may be getting the wrong recommendation. For example, the tight crimped curls like that of springy structure of African hair type, or anyone' hair which is derived from its twisted structure, is NOT suitable for TR. The tightly curled hair twists much more frequently on its axis than in the other groups. The cuticle is sharply kinked at the edges, and gets easily damaged at these points.
 
Finishing step. Ask your stylist to finger-blow-dry your hair and NOT using a brush. This in fact will be the "actual" visible results when you first shampoo the hair at-home - In other words, what you see NOW, is what you get. If at this juncture the stylist uses a brush and a blow-dryer to style your hair, then most likely the TR stylist is camouflaging the problematic panels. You’ll leave the salon “thinking” this is how your hair would look-like. Finger blow-dry will give you a clear indication as to what your hair will look-like, when you first shampoo your hair at-home.
 
Finally, the TR stylist must dry your hair 100 percent and do quick final ironing. Having contact with water is the last thing you want to do for the first 48 - 72 hours. Skipping this step means not finishing the TR process correctly. I tell my clients to wait 72 hours before shampooing the hair. If the client is taking prescriptive medication or if the client is pregnant; it is best to wait four days (96 hours) before shampooing the hair.
 
TR touch-up. To be perfectly honest, TR touch is not easy. It requires a lot more experience and skill. Failing to give good results is due to the stylist’s poor habits and not understanding the basics. The step procedure is exactly the same as virgin application, except the reforming thioglycolate (step 1) solution is applied on the new-growth and by over-lapping a bit, so that there are no visible ridges where the "new growth" meets the "previously" TRd section of head of hair. In addition, the previously TRd sections must be protected; using proteins to fill the previously TRd hair.
 
Maintaining the beauty of you TR: A professional TR stylists will send you home with detailed print-out directions on how to maintain your newly TRd hair and a hair care regimen that will help ensure results. Hair requires a balance of elements - the element of moisture for flexibility and the element of protein for strength. Truly healthy, beautiful hair is possible only when these essential elements are in perfect proportion. Your TR stylist should customize, salon-exclusive hair-care system designed to keep hair in its ultimate moisture/protein balance - its ultimate state of health. It takes professional skill to analyze your hair properly and provide the right advice for your individual needs. Scientifically formulated products give it the beautiful shine, body and resilience of healthy hair.  
 
TR Waivers. You don’t want to sign your rights away. Think carefully before you sign a waiver and consider what it says. You would at least want to get your money back. Don’t forget, if you have a bad experience, there are consumer advocacy organizations and entities like the Better Business Bureau that will track consumer complaints. Unless you speak out, irresponsible TR practitioners will continue to provide the “services”. Maybe by giving a voice to this issue, you can help protect another person from having the same bad experience.
 
Getting there is easy. Take a moment and ascertain of what you’d like your hair to be like…dream a little…then let Science and an advanced TR stylist take you there.  
 
Pre-Plan. Pre-Determine and ask questions. The choice is yours - Finally. The Scientific Approach To Japanese Hair Straightening/Thermal Reconditioning/TR by Steve Tcherkezian. Helping you get to the next level..."
 

Armed with the language, we educate ourselves on certain subjects where we learn the fundamentals and disciplines related to hair. When we find a subject appealing, we want to learn more than just the basics, more than the fundamentals. We learn the disciplines – the proper mechanics. And we discipline ourselves to do it correctly. In essence, in order to master the subject, we do whatever it takes to own the information.

So, you say to yourself: “Where do I go from here?” I understand the language, and now I know how to take better care and to create beautiful hair, based on hair that is in optimum condition…simple, isn’t it?

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Meet YOUR hair: A Closer look at hair through the microscope  
 
Hey, my name is Steve Tcherkezian and I am here to introduce you to Meet Your Hair! Beauty Through Science. The Scientific approach to hair, so you can achieve healthy looking hair. It is hotter, sexier and safer alternative to not knowing your hair and not meeting it!
 
Principle Based Science is about understanding "the big why". understanding the "why" and we'll understand how to gain a more thorough understanding of the hair with which we work, and how to apply our knowledge to be successful in the professional salon industry, and at-home.
 
Once we own the information, we don't have to think about the fundamentals, the mechanics or the disciplines. Its not that we don't utilize them: it's that we don't have to THINK about them. We use them instinctively. When you own the information, you automatically do it correctly. This is when we can truly be creative. Whether it's Michael Jordan sinking a basket, Albert Einstein theorizing a new mathematical equation or Leonardo Da Vinci creating a new masterpiece, they don't think about the text book way they learned to do their craft, they just do it.
 
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The Structure of Hair
 
All matter, whether liquid or gas is composed of ELEMENTS, the building blocks of life. There are 106 elements, five of which are important to the study of hair and skin. Hair is comprised mainly of non-living protein called keratin. Proteins are chains formed by amino acids. These acids are linked together lengthwise and held together by peptide bonds. Keratin protein contains five elements. These five elements are: Carbon, Hydrogen, Oxygen, Nitrogen and Sulfur.
 
Human hair is divided into two basic parts: hair root and hair shaft. The root is found beneath the surface of the skin. In the root area, the hair grows up through a tube-like depression called a follicle. At the bottom of the follicle is the papilla, where hair is formed and melanin is created. This is considered the “living” part of hair, where growth and regeneration of cells occur and blood and nerves exist.
 
Structure of the Hair Shaft
 
The visible part, or hair shaft is non-living keratin divided into three layers: cuticle, cortex and medulla (The medulla, when present, is the innermost layer running down the middle of the hair shaft. In humans, it has no known function).  
 
 
 
Electrical charges, positive electrons which have a (-) negative charge. These electrical charges, positive attracted to negative and vice versa create the energy for atoms to combine or bond together and form more complex units called molecules. Amino acids are one kind of molecule. These are the building blocks of hair and skin protein.
 
There are 22 amino acids, though only 19 of them are found in the keratin protein of the hair and 17 found in the collagen protein structure of the skin. Amino acids link together in a specific order and arrangement to create proteins. Although amino acids are all proteins, each protein is different because of the way it is put together. Amino acids link or bond together, end-to-end, to form larger groups of amino acid chains that are commonly referred to as Peptide or poly-peptide chains. When you consider that there are only 10 numbers which make up every phone in the world…the endless opportunity for different combinations of the 22 amino acid molecules is easier to comprehend.
 
As we discovered the structure of the hair and skin is composed of PROTEINS. When at least 50 amino acids have linked together to form a large molecule, and its molecular weight is 5,000 or more, it is then described as a protein. As peptide bonds link amino acids together end to end there are three different bonds that link or join amino acids together side by side to form three-dimensional structure.
 
These bonds include:
 
• Hydrogen Bonds
• Salt Bonds
• Disulfide Bonds
 
Each of these bonds behaves differently, and serves a different purpose in building the structure of hair.  
 
Hydrogen Bonds
 
These bonds work on the principle that unlike charges attract. Hair has many hydrogen bonds, and they tend to be weak and break apart easily when exposed to water or heat. They serve to organize the proteins, and make up about 35% of the hair’s resistance to change. So, they keep naturally curly hair in its curly form.
 
Salt Bonds
 
Like hydrogen bonds, the salt bonds work on the principle that unlike charges attract too. The salt bonds are largely affected by changes in pH and by water and make up another 35% of the hair’s resistance to change.
 
When the hair is “set”, for example, both the salt and hydrogen bonds are affected by the application of water along with the tension of rollers or brushes in conjunction with the evaporation of water as the hair dries. This allows for a “set” of changes, which affect these salt and hydrogen bonds that are not permanent.
 
Disulfide Bonds
 
When two adjacent protein chains align with the element sulphur in their side groups, this most important bond occurs. This happens when two Cysteine amino acids are joined by a disulfide bond to create a new amino acid called cystine that locks the hair in its three-dimensional shape.
 
When we give a TR/Japanese Straightening service, the reducing agent actually breaks down the disulfide bond, and cuts the cystine in half to create two cysteines. These are later re-bonded through a chemical action to re-create cystine. The disulfide bond is responsible for giving hair its stability and strength.
 
This process of bonding amino acids together happens countless times over to produce the living tissues and appendages of our bodies. Of great interest to us in this discussion is the protein composition of the hair. This fibrous structure is composed of three different types of keratin protein.
 
• The Cortex
 
Formed by spiralling or helical protein chains, which are immersed in a bed of amorphous proteins. The cortex or middle layer is composed of softer, more pliable spiralling chains of protein, which give hair its strength and elasticity.
 
• The Cuticle
 
Flat platelets of hardened keratin. The cuticle is the translucent, outermost portion of keratin that protects the inside of the hair shaft. It is generally seven to ten layers thick, with scales that overlap each other like shingles on a roof.
 
• The Glyco-proteins
 
A highly sticky or glue-like form of keratin that literally holds the cuticle and cortical fibers together.  
 
This illustration shows how tiny microscopic strands of keratin protein begin to twist and wrap together to form protofibrils. These in turn connect and twist to form microfibrils, which twist around each other to create macrofibrils, the basic structure of the cortex of the hair. The cortex is then covered with hard plates of cuticle scales. The nature of this springy form of composition gives the human hair its tremendous flexibility to stretch and return to the original shape without damage.  
 

 
Our bodies are true marvels of science! Beyond just producing the protective layers of skin and hair, the body creates a natural defence system to protect against the harmful elements and external bacteria.
 
Within the skin and attached to the hair follicle openings are sebaceous glands that produce sebum, or oil and moisture glands that produce the body’s perspiration or sweat. The natural secretions mix to form an emulsified coating on the surface of the skin that distributes up on the hair fiber, called the ACID MANTLE. The acid mantle maintains the body’s natural surface acid balance of pH 4.5-5.5
 
We’ve heard of pH. We’ve seen pH’s written for solutions and products. Just what is pH and how is it related to what we do within the professional beauty industry?  
 
Prior to 1960’s, only two groups of individuals were particularly interested in pH, medical professionals and farmers. The pH of one’s blood is extremely important to doctors and nurses, a minor change can quickly lead to severe medical emergencies. Farmers have learned that certain plant grow and produce better in soil of certain pH’s.
 
Yet what does pH mean? The letters are abbreviated for potential Hydrogen. Simply explained, a given pH is a reading (unit of measurement) of positive hydrogen ions compared to negative hydroxyls in an aqueous (water) containing solution. Just as degrees measure temperature, and inches distances, pH numbers measure the amount of acid or alkali in a water based solution. Keep in mind that only solutions containing water and products that dissolve in water can have pH value.
 
The pH scale is numbered from 0 to 14, which would make 7 an exact centre point. At a pH of 7.0 a water solution has the same number of hydrogen ions and hydroxyls and is therefore called NEUTRAL. When positive hydrogen ions are increased the pH will drop below 7, therefore this solution is an ACID. A solution that has more hydroxyls will be above 7, and will be ALKALINE.
 
The pH scale is logarithmic, which means each point value or number increases in multiple of 10. In other words, pH 6 is 10 times more acidic than pH 7, and a pH 5 is 100 times more acidic than pH 7, and so on until you reach 0, which is 10 million times more acidic than the neutral solution of pH 7.0. We’ve been told that a low acid pH is good for our hair, skin and scalp and that a high alkaline pH is less desirable. This statement is partly true when pertaining to products like shampoos, reconditioners or skincare. However, there are some salon services such as perms, haircolor, relaxers, Japanese hair straightening/Thermal Reconditioning/TR that rely on higher alkaline pH chemicals to work properly.
 
In order to understand how to work with the hair and skin, you must first understand its natural properties and protection devices. Remember, pH is a unit of measurement that tells us whether a solution is acidic or alkaline. Strong alkaline, or acidic solutions produce an excess of many negative, or an excess of positive ions which may be repelled by the natural surfaces electrical charges of the hair or skin. Conversely, such solutions may actually significantly change these electrical charges and actually cause the hair as well as the skin to swell, which in turn may weaken or dry them out. Products with mildly acidic pH best maintain the structural integrity of the hair, skin and nails. Selecting the correct pH balanced products includes matching the external pH of the product to the internal pH condition of the hair. As an example, hair that has been treated chemically with a high alkaline pH product (i.e. bleach) will require a lower acidic pH product to neutralize the alkalinity. (i.e. pH 3.0)  
 

 
Early hair and skin care products were primarily made from fats, oils and waxes that coated and produced a barrier on the surface of the hair or skin. They added shine and smoothness, but did nothing to reinforce the inner structure of the hair or skin. Damage was masked temporarily, but never really treated. Further studies of the structure of hair led to the discoveries that allow us to know and understand the actual composition of the hair.
 
• 70-80% Protein – adds strength and resilience
• 10-15% moisture – softens and adds flexibility
• 3-65 lipids – keep the hair and skin soft and supple
• 15 Pigment – adds color to hair and absorbs UV rays
• .05-.5% minerals- attract and bind proteins together
• .1-.5% Carbohydrates – intercellular cement that binds moisture and proteins together.
 
This newfound knowledge of the hair’s composition has helped to further establish proof that topically applied proteins and moisturizing solutions (formulated with the appropriate ‘bonding” capabilities) can dramatically improve weakened and sensitized hair and skin.
 
Hair care products that are based on the scientific principles of hair and skin as well as proven evidence that when carefully formulated, such topically applied proteins and moisturizers can be absorbed into the hair and skin to produce long-term improvements or conditioning. The revelation enabled salon professionals to condition hair internally rather than just camouflage the damage. The result: long term strengthening of the hair fiber, which improves, in part, the look and durability of perms, hair color and Thermal Reconditioning/Japanese Hair Straightening. This phenomenon of using applied science to products and services performed in salons and at-home has forever changed product formulation in both the professional and retail sector of the beauty industry.
 
Characteristics
 
The actual make-up of hair is the same for all humans, regardless of race or origin. Every person’s hair typically has characteristics representing the following:
 
• Diameter of each individual hair strand
• Hair growth process
• Density of hair across the entire head
• Color/pigment of each individual hair

Diameter  
 

 
Hair is described as fine, medium or coarse, which represents the actual diameter of a cross section of an individual hair. It is common among different racial groups to see consistencies in relation to hair diameters. The specific diameter of hair has a very definite effect on its behaviour. The width of a cross section of hair, also known as texture.
 

 
The ratio between the space the cuticle occupies compared to that of the cortex in the diameter of the hair is significant. Remember the protein of the cortex is different from the protein of the cuticle. The cuticle contains hard, resistant layers, (generally 7-10) which lay flat to protect the inside of the shaft which is called the cortex while by comparison the cortex has a soft elastic quality due to spiralling chains of protein.
 
When a particular hair is 90% cortex and 10% cuticle that hair behaves more like the cortex – with more elasticity and the ability to be molded and reshaped, holding a set or a permanent wave, TR and BKT very well.
 
On the other hand, if the cuticle makes up as much as 40% of the hair’s diameter, it will behave more like the cuticle which is more resistant to perming, TR and BKT, rather inflexible and easily damaged.
 
Hair Abundance
 
The abundance of the hair, also known as density, is the amount of hair upon the scalp head per square inch. We classify this as sparse, average, or thick (dense). The amount of hair on our bodies is a genetic factor and varies from person to person. A person with fine hair usually has less density per square inch than a coarse haired individual.
 
The amount of hair on each individual’s body is a genetic factor, which varies tremendously from person to person. The diameter of the hair doesn’t necessarily indicate the density across the surface of the scalp. Though, it is not unusual to see an individual with fine hair also having a lower density of hairs per square inch, and an individual with coarse hair having a thicker density. Hair density is always affected by the percentage of hair in the Anagen, Catagen or Telogen stages – while a woman is in pregnancy her hair will remain longer in the Anagen stage of growth. Following child birth, much of her hair will move rapidly through the Catagen stage and directly to the Telogen phase. The appearance is “sudden hair loss” and thinning hair”. Actually, the loss of hair is the body’s functional balance returning to normal.
 
In actual fact, the average head is approximately 120 square inches (74 cm2). That’s around 1,000 hairs per square inch (6.5 cm2). Blonde haired people often have an average of 140,000 hairs on their heads. Those with brown hair have about 110,000, black hair around 108,000, and red, approximately 90,000. Determining abundance helps to define the size of the parting required for TR, BKT, haircolor application. Hair with sparse abundance may require ¼-inch partings, while hair with average to coarse abundance may require 1/8-inch partings to insure proper product saturation and/or ironing in doing a TR/ BKT.
 
Formation (Shape)
 
Hair formation – generally described as straight, wavy or curly – must also be considered prior to a TR, BKT or a haircolor service.
 
  When the hair grows outward toward the surface, the individual hair fibers project from the scalp in straight or wavy pattern, which are angled at varying degrees. In hair that is excessively curly, the follicles are projected at a much stronger angle (i.e. the bulb region is almost parallel to the surface of the scalp). Furthermore, the hair bulb itself is retroverted, or bent on a strong angle – much like the appearance of a golf club. In contrast, hair follicles in straight or wavy hair project at only a slight angle to the surface.
 
Try thinking of hair as pasta: Straight hair-spaghetti (round), wavy hair-linguini (oval) and curly hair-fettuccini (flat).
 
Evaluating the condition of hair prior to TR, BKT, haircoloring/highlight.
 
Once you know the texture and abundance and condition of the hair, you will need to determine its condition. This important step is always taken into consideration and corrected in order to achieve successful TR, BKT and haircolor results.
 
Visual examination of the hair can reveal whether the hair is dry or oily, virgin or chemically treated, over-processed, dull, or healthy. The hair can also be physically evaluated to determine if it has good elasticity or it is porous or damaged.
 
Elasticity test
 
An elasticity test assesses hair tensile strength. Remove a strand of hair from the side of the head above the ears. Hold it between your thumb and forefinger. With the thumbnail and index of nail of the other hand, run the distance of the hair rapidly, as you would curl a ribbon with scissors. This should create a series of small curls. Then, gently pull the hair straight for 10 seconds and release. If the hair completely or almost completely returns to the curl pattern, it has good elasticity. If it returns only 50% or less, it is structurally weak and may require protein treatments.  
 
 
 
Is the hair damaged?
 
Damaged hair is often the result of excessive environmental, chemical, thermal or mechanical styling stress. It may be weak and brittle when dry, spongy or stretchy when wet. Damage may be externally or physically obvious, or internal.  
 
To determine if the cuticle is damaged, perform this simple test; separate a 1 to 2 inch section of hair and hold it firmly between your thumb and fingers. Slide the thumb and forefinger of your other hand along this section from the ends toward the scalp. If the hair seems to easily tease or “back-comb” between your fingers, the cuticle is damaged (note; this test is not effective with curly hair types). Usually, damaged hair requires moisture and protein treatments to reinforce and help return it to a healthy state.
 
Porosity
 
Hair that can absorb and retain moisture has good or acceptable porosity. Varying degrees of porosity result when:
• Hair is longer (i.e.) ‘older’
• Hair is exposed to environmental elements
• Hair is regularly styled with heat implements
 
Over-porous hair can be caused by excessive heat styling, bleaching, coloring, or other chemicals such as TR, BKT, relaxers and permanent waves. It may feel slimy when wet and brittle when dry.
 
Porosity needs to be considered when selecting TR and hair coloring products – it determined formula mixtures and processing times. When the hair is weakened or in poor condition, it is advisable to treat it and ensure the best possible TR, BKT and hair color results.
 
Hair Damage
 
The structure of the damaged hair is considered ‘disordered”. Internally, the fibrils of the cortex may be separated in spots causing hair to be weak and over-porous.
 
Damage to the cortex can be caused in a number of ways. Styling tools such as a dryer used too close to the hair, or a hot iron left on too long can actually melt the cortex. Improper use of perms, TR, BKT, relaxers, lighteners, tints and over-exposure to the sun can also damage the cortex. The result: weakened, dry, brittle and dull-looking hair.  
 
Usually if the cortex is damaged, the cuticle has been damaged too.
 
A damaged or “abraded” cuticle is often the result of mechanical friction to the fiber. Wet-brushing and combing, towel-drying, repeated use of thermal styling equipment, improper cutting techniques, teasing, braiding, use of rubber bands and tight clips all cause breakage of the cuticle scales.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
“Split ends” are another form of hair breakage. They start as cracks in the cuticle which eventually deepen and break or “fray” the cortical bundles. If split ends aren’t cut off, the splits increase and the ends become completely frayed. It is to your advantage to recondition damaged hair and maintain its competency.  
 
 
 
Healthy compact cuticle 2
 
 
 
Bent hair caused by bad ironing techniques
 
 
 
Broken hair caused by bad perm/TR techniques
 
 
 
Broken cuticles by over pressing with the iron and ironing in the wrong direction  
 
 
 
Melted cortex by over pressing with the iron
 
 
Growth
 
Growth refers to the stages at which there is active reproduction. The hair is being reproduced by means of 3 specific stages of activity or growth.
 
• Anagen (Growing)
• Catagen (Transitional or Resting)
• Telogen (Falling out)
 
Anagen
 

The cells that make up a strand of hair produced in the hair bulb. The hair’s active growth stages is called the anagen phase. In an anagen bulb, cells are dividing, specializing and moving upward. In a normal, healthy scalp, 80 to 84% of the hairs are in the anagen phase.
 
 
Catagen
 

The transition from active growth to bulb maturity is referred to as the catagen phase. At this time the cells are dying, and the bulb takes on a broom-like appearance.
 
 
Telogen
 

When the bulb phases into the telogen phase, no further cells are produced. Ultimately, telogen hair falls out.
 
 
During the anagen stage, the hair bulbs (the living part of the hair) each have an attached root sheath and the germinal matrix cells are all in an active stage of cellular division and production. Once all cell division stops, the hair bulb moves into the second step of its life, the catagen or resting stage.
 
The hair reaches the telogen stage when the hair bulb has no attached root sheath. Eventually, this will lead to the hair to fall out, and signals the cell birth layers to begin cell reproduction to start the process all over. It is estimated that the duration of the Anagen stage is 2-6 years, the Catagen stage only last a few months, and the Telogen stage even shorter. Different types of hair also have different growth rates.
 
FYI: For example, beard hair is similar to that of scalp hair, eyebrow and eyelash hair that grows for about 10 weeks, and rests for 9-12 months before falling out. That is why eyebrows don’t seem to grow back much after they’ve been shaved, but seems to grow rapidly after being tweezed. Tweezing actually stimulates the Anagen, or active growth stage to start.
 
Illness, a low protein or unbalanced low diet in vitamins and minerals can have effects on the hair growth. In fact, anything that alters the physiological state of the body can, and probably will affect hair health and hair growth. Remember, each individual hair grows from an individual hair follicle, which is nourished by the blood supply and oxygen of the body.
 
Armed with the language, we educate ourselves on certain subjects where we learn the fundamentals and disciplines related to hair. When we find a subject appealing, we want to learn more than just the basics, more than the fundamentals. We learn the disciplines – the proper mechanics. And we discipline ourselves to do it correctly. In essence, in order to master the subject, we do whatever it takes to own the information.
 
So, you say to yourself: “Where do I go from here?” I understand the language, and now I know how to take better care and to create beautiful hair, based on hair that is in optimum condition…simple, isn’t it? –SteveT

Armed with the language, we educate ourselves on certain subjects where we learn the fundamentals and disciplines related to hair. When we find a subject appealing, we want to learn more than just the basics, more than the fundamentals. We learn the disciplines – the proper mechanics. And we discipline ourselves to do it correctly. In essence, in order to master the subject, we do whatever it takes to own the information.

So, you say to yourself: “Where do I go from here?” I understand the language, and now I know how to take better care and to create beautiful hair, based on hair that is in optimum condition…simple, isn’t it?

Back to Top

How to shampoo YOUR hair the right way  
 
Hey, my name is Steve Tcherkezian and I am here to introduce you to "How to shampoo and condition your hair the right way" - Beauty Through Science. The Scientific approach to hair, so you can achieve healthy looking hair. It is hotter, sexier and safer alternative to not knowing how to do it the right way.  
 
Curly hair faces very specific challenges – dryness, tangle and frizz. Many clients find their curls unruly, unmanageable and often unpredictable; they want softness, natural looking, definition with touch-ability and absolutely no frizz. But clients forget that Japanese Hair Straightened/TRd hair behaves best with products that had been specifically formulated to address its specific needs. When working with TRd hair, remember hair specific hair care products is not an option, but absolute necessity.
 
The healthiest hair that walks! To have the healthiest hair, you need to learn how to, prior to letting it go out and you can always see it in your hair.  
 
Hair care products that are based on the scientific principles of hair and skin as well as proven evidence that when carefully formulated, such topically applied proteins and moisturizers can be absorbed into the hair and skin to produce long-term improvements or conditioning. The revelation enabled salon professionals to condition hair internally rather than just camouflage the damage. The result: long term strengthening of the hair fiber, which improves, in part, the look and durability of perms, hair color and Thermal Reconditioning/Japanese Hair Straightening. This phenomenon of using applied science to products and services performed in salons and at-home has forever changed product formulation in both the professional and retail sector of the beauty industry.  
 
We’ve heard of pH, we’ve seen pH’s written for solutions and products. Just what is pH and how is it related to what we do within the professional beauty industry?  
 
Prior to 1960’s, only two groups of individuals were particularly interested in pH, medical professionals and farmers. The pH of one’s blood is extremely important to doctors and nurses, a minor change can quickly lead to severe medical emergencies. Farmers have learned that certain plant grow and produce better in soil of certain pH’s.  
 
Here is what your weekly at-home hair care regimen would look-like.  
 
1. Shampoo, rinse, towel blot gently. Leave damp.
 
2. Treatment, apply and distribute evenly, comb through at one-inch parting detangling from the ends first; use Mason Pearson Detangling Comb (Mason Pearson Combs are high quality combs with rounded soft edges and have no ridges in between the tooth of the comb. Everyone should own the Mason Pearson Detangling Comb). Cover with plastic covering. Leave 10 minutes with heat (or use 8 minutes heat from a blow-dryer and 2 minutes without). Cool down, rinse, towel blot gently.
 
3. Conditioner, apply, distribute evenly. Rinse, towel blot gently. Leave damp. Always finish with a cool rinse, this helps close the cuticle of the hair and make it much shinier. Don't rub or towel ruffle the hair; you will tear up the hair's cuticle and loose shine and elasticity.
 
4. Leave-in Treatment, apply a small amount, distribute evenly throughout. Comb at one-inch parting, detangling from the ends first. Proceed with the styling technique of your choice.  
 
The idea is to follow steps 1, 2, 3 and 4 at least once a week. If you shampoo your hair more often than once a week, follow steps 1, 3 and 4 only. If you feel your hair is now slightly more damaged than its ever been, then do steps 1, 2, 3, 4 at least twice or three a week, and until you feel your hair is doing better.
 
Here is how to Shampoo and Condition your hair the right way.  
 
Detangle hair: Make sure all tangles are removed from your hair BEFORE you wet it. When you hair is tangled and water hits it, the tangles become locked in. Brush it out (gently) before you get in the shower. First get a good detangling comb, they have very wide teeth. (Mason Pearson ‘Detangling Comb’ is the best comb money can buy). Comb your hair before you start to brush. Combing has to be done bottom up. Start to detangle your hair from the ends first and work up to the scalp. Go through some inches until all knots are combed out. After you detangled your hair by this method, use a brush to go through the whole length, top down. Do not brush abruptly. This will help shedding or “old hair” being loosened in the follicle to make way for tangle free, shampoo ’do. Easy!
 
Combing is simple, work from the ends and work in sections. When you start at the ends, make sure the few inches at the end are completely detangled first before adding an inch or two above it. Starting at the crown of the head and combing downwards would simply create more tangles. Basically, you are trying to avoid combing through tangles or creating more tangles.
 
If you're using hair-styling products, you must change your shampoo routine. The mousse, wax and gel you apply in the morning will harden at the end of the day, so don't brush your hair before shampooing in the evening. First get a good detangling comb (they have very wide teeth). Mason Pearson ‘Detangling Comb’ is the best comb money can buy. They are not cheap, but they're worth it. Combing has to be done bottom up. Start to detangle your hair from the ends first and work up to the scalp. Go through some inches until all knots are combed out. After you detangled your hair by this method, wet the hair and scalp thoroughly with warm water. Apply shampoo and wash while massaging the scalp. Don't rub your hair in lather. When you are finished, keep the lather in place for around one minute. This will lift the styling chemicals from the hair. Rinse and apply conditioner or treatment.
 
Apply the treatment to damaged hair before shampooing. If your hair is damaged, wet the hair thoroughly and apply the treatment only to the ends for protection before shampooing. If your hair extends past the shoulder blade, apply treatment to the portion below the shoulder blade and gently rub the hair to let the nutrients penetrate. Be sure to do it in a gentle, soft action. For long hair, apply around 5 cc or one tablespoon-full of treatment.
 
First get a good detangling comb with wide teeth comb; using Mason Pearson Detangling Comb. Comb your hair before you start to brush before you get in the shower. Combing has to be done bottom up. Start to detangle your hair from the ends first and work up to the scalp. Go through some inches until all knots are combed out. If your hair is really messy today, separate it and comb each strand on its own.  
 
After detangling your hair by this method, use a brush to go through the whole length, top down. Do not brush abruptly. This will help shedding or “old hair” being loosened in the follicle to make way for tangle free, shampoo.
 
 
Wet your hair as though you are soaking it. First, thoroughly saturate scalp and hair using warm or cool water (100°F or 38°C) (hot water tends to dry out hair and scalp). The primary objective of shampooing is to clean your scalp, not wrestle your hair, so concentrate on massaging gently and allow suds to be distributed throughout hair while rinsing. Wet your hair thoroughly in the shower. Some people say only cool water, some people say only warm. Single strand of hair is very fine. If you rinse your hair with hot water, it will cause the cuticle to peal. Also, essential oil will run out. If your hair is long, try to keep it straight while you wet it.
 

 
The main purpose of shampooing is to wash the scalp. The length of the hair doesn't matter. If your hair is long, massaging the scalp with the fingers will also cause your entire head of hair to move. Since the hair is already receiving vibration and friction, rubbing and kneading it further in large amounts of lather will cause damage to the hair. You shampoo your hair almost each day, so master the correct shampooing technique to keep your hair looking healthy and lively.  
 
 
Shampoo your scalp! Only lather the ends. Shampoo scalp for 2 minutes. It is not necessary to lather too much- this can cause damage to the hair’s cuticle. Proper way of shampooing is to shampoo your scalp. Put shampoo on your scalp, not on your hair. Apply shampoo from the nape, around the ears and hairline. Gently massage the scalp throughout your entire head. Keeping your scalp clean and healthy is very important. The primary objective of shampooing is to clean your scalp, not wrestle your hair, so concentrate on massaging gently and allow suds to be distributed throughout hair while rinsing. It’s not necessary to do the “rinse and repeat” routine unless you have an oily scalp.  
   

 
It is not necessary to lather up so much! Too much lathering can cause damage to the cuticle of the hair. Work it gently through your hair starting at the root area and moving down toward the ends. Remember, the cuticle layer (outer most layer) of your hair grows out in this direction.  
 
 
Gently rinse your hair. Just as you wet your hair in the first step, trap the water and massage with it. Do not use strong water pressure to rinse your hair. Now, squeeze the excess water from your hair. Apply a sufficient amount of treatment to where your hair is driest first. For most people, this means the ends. Massage the product into the hair.
 
 
 
Rinse thoroughly. Excess shampoo residue can cause hair to be dull and flat looking. Remember, you're always aiming the water away from your scalp toward the ends. Running your fingers gently.
 
 
Certain kind of styling materials can change the way you shampoo the hair. Styling materials used will harden up throughout the day. It should be thoroughly rinsed out before applying the shampoo, but never brush it out before wetting. Apply shampoo, gently lather and massage your entire scalp. Let it sit with lather for 1 minute. This will cleanse the build up of the styling material on your hair. After rinsing it out, apply conditioning treatment.  
 
 
 
 
Hair is always loosing protein through daily abuse. Treatments revitalize and replenish lost protein and nutrients in hair. It is necessary to apply Treatment at least once a week.  
 
Long hair tends to get damaged easily. Any hair passed shoulder length can be considered damaged. Hair is a build up of dead cells, so it does not have the ability to heal and revitalize its own damaged areas. Natural oils from your scalp can only reach to your ear line. If you keep this in mind every time you shampoo your hair, it will make a lot of difference.
 
Treatment is applied to replenish damaged hair with nutrients. The essential complex contained in your treatment product will penetrate each strand of hair through the cuticle and replenish lost protein. I recommend that those with medium to long hair use one treatment for each shampoo. The amount applied varies, but roughly one teaspoon for a medium length hair and 2 teaspoon for long hair. Apply to your hair below the ears without diluting. Make doubly sure the hair is not too wet.  
 
For damaged hair apply treatment before shampooing. If your hair is damaged, wet your hair thoroughly and apply conditioner to protect your hair before you shampoo. Apply conditioner only on the ends. For hair longer than shoulder line, apply conditioner and let it penetrate into the hair as you gently massage your hair. The amount of the conditioner is about the size of tea spoon for long hair.
 
If you have bleached or colored hair, I recommend that you use a treatment after every shampoo.  
 
 
Now is the time to comb your hair. It's easy to get a comb through hair with Treatment in it. Start at the ENDS, not at the root area. This helps remove knots and tangles quickly. Work your way up the shaft. Now, leave it on for a while. Combing your hair out should be much easier. Process 5 to 10 minutes, rinse.
 

 
Finally, Apply Conditioner in one hand and rub palms together to evenly distribute. Apply conditioner from the middle of the hair shaft down to ends. Do not massage conditioner onto scalp unless scalp is dry. Comb through hair to distribute evenly. Leave conditioner on hair—it only takes a few seconds. Rinse thoroughly. It’s important to rinse shampoo and conditioner from your scalp. Stand under the shower and gently lift hair to permit the water to reach the scalp. Hair will be thoroughly rinsed when it feels consistently clean as you run your fingers from scalp to ends.
   
Not many people know the true role that conditioners plays. A Conditioner is a surface active rinse, so it acts topically just like a make-up and/or a lip-stick. Or you can think of it as a skin lotion for the hair. Just as you apply skin lotion to firm and tighten your skin after washing the face, conditioner closes the opened cuticles and changes the hair's pH value to a weak acidity. Normally, Conditioners have a lower pH value to help close and smoothen the cuticle layers and to give it shine. A Treatment on the other hand has the vital moisturizers, lipids and amino acids. It boosts, seals, enhances and replaces depleted strength and reinforces the internal hair fiber. Many believe applying a lot of conditioner will make the hair shinier, but this is wrong. Conditioner only needs to adhere to the hair surface.  
 
 
After shampooing, towel blot excess moisture out, do NOT rub down with a towel. Gently blot the moisture at the ends to avoid friction between strands of hair that will cause cuticle damage. Dry your hair with a towel not to "wipe" but to "absorb moisture." Never rub your hair forcibly by wrapping your head with a towel. The water attached to the hair will travel down naturally after a while, so gently pressing a towel over the hair will remove moisture effectively. Don't rub or knead? This is an iron rule that applies to every step of the shampooing process. Wet hair is very fragile and prone to damage. As you dry the hair, the cuticle closes and the tensile strength returns. This will also reduce the time the hair in its weakened state; making the hair stronger and less prone to breakage.
 

 
 
Long hair tends to get damaged very easily. Any hair passed shoulder length can be considered damaged. Hair is a build up of dead cells, so it does not have the ability to heal and revitalize its own damaged areas. Natural oils from your scalp can only reach to your ear line. If you keep this in mind every time you shampoo your hair, it will make a lot of difference.
 
The portion around 10 cm from the scalp is young hair with little damage, but the remaining portion has been wind-blown, washed in shampoo and rubbed with towels for many years and should therefore be worn to some extent. If the hair is long, the natural oils secreted from the scalp can't travel to the ends, so the hair will become excessively dry over time if nothing is done.  
 
Short hair of up to about 10 cm has plenty of natural oil. Since the hair is young and strong, handling it a little roughly won't cause too much damage. However, this is not the case with hair of over 10 cm. ideally; the portion below 10 cm from the scalp should not be touched during shampooing. Of course that isn't possible, but taking heed of the aforementioned points will certainly change your hair for the better. Let's start a new regimen today!
 
 
Some people let their hair air-dry, but this seemingly "natural" approach is really NOT good for the hair. After thoroughly absorbing moisture with a towel, apply ID.CARE heat silk lotion, and detangling Cream over your hair (ask your stylist for the recommended hair care regimen). Start from the nape area, with the portion above the forehead dried last, so that the top portion will not absorb all the moisture. If the top of your hair is always flat no matter how long you blow-dry, it is because the bottom part is still wet and water is being channelled upward. When the scalp is completely dry and the hair is 80-percent dry, style your hair into the desired look.
 

 
Air-drying your hair after shampoo will cause more damage than blow drying!  
 
Why blow-drying is preferable to air-drying. According to the Japanese instructors, blow-drying is always preferable to air-drying for one main reason. When the hair is wet, the water molecules fill the cracks in the cuticle and absorb into the hair. Like a sponge, the hair expands enough to accommodate the water. The water exerts a slight pressure from inside the hair which stresses the cuticle layer and lifts the cuticle outwards slightly. If the hair is in a stressed state long enough, the hair's cuticle layer will split and peel up to relieve the pressure.  
 
The cuticle is a hardened dead layer of protein, and once the stress fractures happens, there is no permanent repair solution. When the hair is blown dry using warm air, on a low setting, the water is evaporated out of the hair quicker, relieving the stress faster. It is very important to not rough up the hair while blow-drying, because that damages the cuticle, and it is recommended using the fingers only, blowing in a downward motion from roots to ends. If the temperature is too hot, that will not benefit the hair at all since it will dry out the outside of the cuticle very quickly, possibly burning it, while the water inside has not yet evaporated.  
 
The water locked inside is evaporating out, re-moisturizing the cuticle and encouraging the fuzz. I choose to recommend blow-drying TRd hair on low, in a downward motion. Do not iron if it doesn't need extra smoothing and if it's very straight, unless of course it's time for a root touch up and you need to smooth the hair for an occasion.  
 
It is very important to sleep on a slippery surface, such as a satin pillowcase. Some clients fit a slip over their pillows instead of a satin case. The reason for the satin pillowcase is because keeping the cuticle smooth, and flat and healthy is the first priority in maintaining healthy hair. When you destroy the cuticle, you speed the downfall of you hair's health. The cuticle lies flat, overlapping, like shingles. When you rough up the cuticles, back comb the cuticles, peel the cuticles with heat, you destroy the hair. Sleeping on a satin pillowcase helps prevent the cuticle from getting beaten up during the night as the head moves around and puts pressure on the hair. Fabric such as flannel is the worst for the cuticle since it puts so much tension on the hair. It is also better for you skin in helping to prevent facial creases caused by the face laying in the same position for an extended time, squished in some unnatural way
 
Begin styling the hair when the scalp is completely dry and 80% of the hair is dry. After towel drying your hair, apply a leave-in conditioner. Then blow-dry the nape first, leaving the area above the forehead second. The bottom part should be dried first, so that the top part does not absorb the moisture from the bottom. This offers body. Always choose to blow-dry TRd hair on low, and in a downward motion. Do not iron it unless you need to for an occasion or it's time for a root touch up and you need smooth the hair.
 
So, you say to yourself “Where do I go from here?” I understand the language, and now I know how to take better care and to create beautiful hair, based on hair that is in optimum condition…simple, isn’t it? –SteveT

Armed with the language, we educate ourselves on certain subjects where we learn the fundamentals and disciplines related to hair. When we find a subject appealing, we want to learn more than just the basics, more than the fundamentals. We learn the disciplines – the proper mechanics. And we discipline ourselves to do it correctly. In essence, in order to master the subject, we do whatever it takes to own the information.

So, you say to yourself: “Where do I go from here?” I understand the language, and now I know how to take better care and to create beautiful hair, based on hair that is in optimum condition…simple, isn’t it?

Back to Top

Swimming: YOU wouldn't go in salt or chlorinated water without it.  
 
Chlorine affects hair more than salt water. Chlorine and hard water minerals can all cause serious damage to the hair not to mention leave it unmanageable, frizzy and for some; weighted and lifeless. Chlorine can form green cast on the hair too, and it is most obvious on blondes and grey hair. It is not so obvious on black hair, as the green becomes lost in the background color.

Chlorine affects hair more than salt water. Chlorine and hard water minerals can all cause serious damage to the hair not to mention leave it unmanageable, frizzy and for some; weighted and lifeless. Chlorine can form green cast on the hair too, and it is most obvious on blondes and grey hair. It is not so obvious on black hair, as the green becomes lost in the background color.

What to do before swimming in chlorinated pool/sea water: First soak your hair with fresh water for 2-3 minutes. This will help your hair to absorb the fresh water and won't be able to "hold" the chlorinated/sea water. Run UV Rescue After-Sun Conditioner through it. This will prevent chlorine/sea water from being absorbed into your hair. Then, if possible put on a tightly fitting swimming cap.

After swimming in chlorinated pools/sea water: Immediately rinse your hair with fresh water after swimming. Don't allow chlorine to dry on your hair. Shampoo the hair with Redken’s Hair Cleansing Crème Shampoo or UV Rescue After-Sun Shampoo. Follow-up with UV Rescue After-Sun Conditioner.

Sun bathing: When lying out in the sun, apply Shimmering Oil Leave-in Smoother. The heat from the sun will help the action of the conditioner, and the sunscreens will block out the UV rays which cause hair damage. Color and TR treated hair has special needs and good care is good sense for any hair type. Try to use hats, scarves to help protect against color fade and the drying effects of the sun.

UV Rescue After-Sun Shampoo gently cleanses, removing minerals, chlorine and salt deposits. Uv Filter helps Deflect & Protect. Vitamin C Derivative helps Defend & Energize and ceramide restores & Recondition. How to use: Apply to wet hair, massage into lather, rinse.

UV Rescue After-Sun Conditioner the C2 Solar Complex provides two levels of action: External; provides detangling. Internal: The powerful combination of Vitamin C derivative and ceramide helps to reconstruct, strengthen and reenergize hair. How to use: Apply and distribute through the hair. Rinse.

Shimmering Oil leave-in Smoother.. Water-resistant, protective spray that helps give intense, broadband UVA/B protection to hair. Silky oil evenly coats hair to give a high luminous shine and control. Gold mica particles provide a dimensional cosmetic look to hair. C2 Solar Complex delivers UVA/UVB Filter. Helps deflect & protect. Vitamin C helps defend & energize. Ceramide restores & reconditions. Glycerin help moisturize. How to use: Shake well and apply to damp/dry hair prior to sun exposure. Reapply throughout the day. Hair has special needs and good care is good sense for any hair type.

Kerastase Bain Après Soleil line is good too for treating hair after sun and salt/chlorine water exposure. They also have a special clarifying shampoo.

Armed with the language, we educate ourselves on certain subjects where we learn the fundamentals and disciplines related to hair. When we find a subject appealing, we want to learn more than just the basics, more than the fundamentals. We learn the disciplines – the proper mechanics. And we discipline ourselves to do it correctly. In essence, in order to master the subject, we do whatever it takes to own the information.

So, you say to yourself: “Where do I go from here?” I understand the language, and now I know how to take better care and to create beautiful hair, based on hair that is in optimum condition…simple, isn’t it?

Back to Top

Blow-dryer, ceramic iron is a matter of personal preference  
 
What you need to look for is the cubic meters/hour (air flow) for fast drying. For example, Parlux 3000 hair dryer with 1810 Watt of controlled power and 69 cubic meters/hour is an excellent blow-dryer, but you need to consider its weigh and ease of use. Most manufacturers do not include the air flow ratings, but you can easily tell – it’ll blow powerful air rather than congested hot air.

The point is the way to know anything for sure about any new product is to test it along with a control product. My theory is with a dryer that is too hot it evaporates the surface water very quickly leaving the deeper water left behind for the time being is able to evaporate more completely as well as the surface water. The hair (which isn't very deep because the hair is not hollow straw, and if it could soak up lots of water, the internal pressure of the hair would split it open like an oversaturated sponge) will seem dry because the surface is dry. The water underneath will push out the cuticles as it attempts to evaporate, causing curly hair to get a little fuzzy, and causing straight hair to feel a little texture-y.

Ionic blow-dryer: It has been interesting to hear the differences in opinion, for sure. What I have found, is that other stylists (and myself) form a very definite opinion one way or the other. They either love it or are disappointed by it. The stylists who love it seem to love the philosophy behind it and the newness of the idea. The stylists who are disappointed are so, because they look at the actual performance. I am a performance, hard facts, experimentally driven sort of guy and I don't easily buy into anything new.

Don't waste your money on any of these ionic dryers. I have seen no results matching what they claim it will do. The majorities of manufacturers are more interested in telling stylists how they developed answering technical questions regarding how ions even help the hair. In the their class, they specifically state that no products are to be used in the hair when using their blow-dryer, because the dryer purifies the hair by vaporizing the contaminants off of the hair, including products. They claims that the ionic dryer removes smells, cleans the air, and imparts a clear state of mind, like when standing by a waterfall.....I asked if it would change the cat litter, too.....

Low cost blow-dryers: I used my Ionic dryers and I demoted it to "garbage-dryer" status after using it on clients, because it does nothing more for the hair than the dryer I was using. It did not dry the hair faster, it did not make the hair shiner, and it did nothing that I could see or feel. I think the whole ionic system is a crock, and I would not recommend any of the products to anyone since there are plenty of other better products on the market. I don't have any allegiance to any particular brand, but there are a variety of different dryers at different prices. If there is nothing you like, ask your stylist to get you a dryer in your price range. Another dryer I still have but do not use anymore is my ceramic-infrared-ionic digital dryer. Don't waste your money. My daughter’s hair is TR'd and it has not gotten any "healthier" by using the Ionic dryer or the ceramic dryer. Hope that helps you in some way.

Most of the really great dryers are Italian at this point, and can run up to $300 or higher. You should call the top salons in the world and ask them what they use, if you want an interesting opinion. What we use in North America usually trails sadly behind the innovative products used in Europe.

Get a Solano, Parlux or Aria, which are still the best dryers. Visit a salon and try it and discuss it with a stylist. TR or not TR treated hair the best way to check is to test the air flow. The hair dryer’s air flow is located on the back of the dryer; it is where the dryer sucks the air. Turn the dryer on high speed and place the palm of your hand on the suction. Do this by apply and remove motion on the suction - the stronger the suction, the better. Stay away from Ionic blow-dryers, at least for now, because most tend to get very hot and can cause damage to the hair and the scalp, and as a result it may have an impact on the hair follicle.

On Ceramic irons: A ceramic iron with plates that’s 1 ¼ inch wide, light weight, fits the palm of your hand comfortably, has adjustable thermostat control (preferably with digital temperature setting, instead of a round dial) to set the proper temperature for various hair conditions and textures. Bevel edged plates; this allows the plates to delineate the line representing the outline of the hair.

Always start at the lowest temperature setting and increase the temperature as needed for your Personal hair type and texture. For chemically treated, fine or damaged hair, use a lower heat setting.

Only lower heat settings are recommended for fine chemically treated or damaged hair. Higher heat settings are for coarse, healthy hair types or for ethnic styles. Of course, these are only suggestions. You will quickly find the right temperature for your hair.

Make sure to use a heat protecting product to help reduce and deflect the transfer of heat. Apply ID.CARE Heat Silk Lotion, or 2 or 3 drops of Kerastase Oleo Relax serum or Heat Glide and/or both; ID CARE and the serum evenly on damp hair, comb through, blow-dry 100%. Distribute as evenly as possible before ironing.

Armed with the language, we educate ourselves on certain subjects where we learn the fundamentals and disciplines related to hair. When we find a subject appealing, we want to learn more than just the basics, more than the fundamentals. We learn the disciplines – the proper mechanics. And we discipline ourselves to do it correctly. In essence, in order to master the subject, we do whatever it takes to own the information.

So, you say to yourself: “Where do I go from here?” I understand the language, and now I know how to take better care and to create beautiful hair, based on hair that is in optimum condition…simple, isn’t it?

Back to Top

Helping you understand hair-growth & hair-loss  
 
Do not confuse hair “shedding”, hair “loss” with hair breakage! Shedding is part of the normal process of the replacement of old hair with new. The new hair emerges from the same opening at the surface of the scalp as the old one, and then the hair cycle begins again.

Internal factors that cause hair loss.
You need to know about the stages of the hair cycle in order to understand many of the problems people have with their hair. Each individual hair is formed inside a hair bulb deep in a hair follicle. The follicle is a tiny but powerful factory, which throughout many people's lifetime hardly ever stops working. Finally the hair spontaneously falls out. The follicle rests for a little while, and then starts to produce yet another new hair.

This is the hair cycle: The anagen (the growing phase) phase of a new hair starts at the moment it begins to grow; active growth in the hair bulb. Catagen (the intermediate phase) is a short resting phase. The telogen (the shedding phase) is the time at which a new hair begins to grow from the hair follicle. As it grows upwards the old hair will be shed naturally or may be pulled out, which happens easily and painlessly. These are the hairs that come out when you shampoo or brush your hair.

The hair loss is not permanent as long as the roots have not been damaged. In some older people the hair cycle becomes shorter, the follicles gradually give up producing long, strong hair, and the hairs become thinner and shorter. If sudden, extensive hair loss occurs, medical attention should be sought immediately.

Hair growth and nourishment: There are three phases of hair growth starting with the anagen “living or growing phase”. At least 85% of hair on a normal healthy scalp are said to be in the anagen phase at any given time and have a normal life of two to six years. The catagen “resting phase” is a transitional stage, the bulb’s cellular activity slows down as it approaches a complete resting phase. The final phase of the bulb’s life cycle is a complete resting stage called telogen “falling phase” these are the hairs that normally fall out and are often found in the brush or on the pillow.

This shedding, or “old” hair is being loosened in the follicle to make way for “new” hair to grow. So the hairs that fall out are replaced rather quickly by long-lived new hair. It is not necessarily damage from TR that causes you to have those little short hairs at the part or all over a head of hair. Hair has a life cycle - you are always losing some and then it starts to re-grow. When your hair is super straight, you notice the new (short) hair more. With curly hair, it gets hidden. Most authorities believe that loss of 80-100 hairs per day is natural. Hair growth is not increased by any of the following:

1) Close clipping, shaving, trimming, cutting or singeing have no effect upon the rate of hair growth.
2) The application of ointments or oils and vitamins will not increase hair growth. They act as lubricants to the hair shaft but do not feed the hair.

Normal hair shedding:
 
A certain amount of hair is shed daily. This is nature’s method of making way for new hair. The average daily shedding is estimated at 50 to 80 hairs. Hair loss beyond this estimated average may indicate scalp or hair trouble.

Note: Most people confuse a mechanical bend or reduction with new growth. As the hair grows, you will notice a contrast; a slight wave or bump between your natural curl pattern meeting the previously TRd hair. This is perfectly normal.

Material for the growth of the hair comes from the papilla (vascular process of connective tissue extending into and nourishing the root of a hair, feather, or developing tooth). As long as the papilla is not destroyed, the hair will grow. If the hair papilla is pulled out from the roots, it will nevertheless grow again, Should the papilla be destroyed, it will never grow again.

In human beings, new hair replaces old hair in the following ways:

1) The bulb loosens and separates from the papilla.
2) The bulb moves upward in the follicle.
3) The hair moves slowly to the surface, where it is shed.
4) The new hair is formed by cell division that takes place at a point at the root of the hair and around the papilla.

The exact life span of the hair will range from two to six years. Other factors, such as sex, age, type of hair, heredity and health will affect the hair growth.

Hair cycle: If the hair is normal and healthy, each individual hair goes through a steady cycle of events: growth, fall and replacement.

The formation and growth of hair cells depend on proper nourishment and oxygen which only the bloodstream can supply. Therefore, the function of blood is indispensable to the health and life of hair.

When the body is healthy, hair flourishes. If the body is ill, hair weakens. When the bloodstream provides the hair papilla with food elements, the hair grows.

Normal hair growth: The average growth of healthy hair on the scalp of an adult is about one half inch per month. Research indicates that the hair may grow faster in the case of younger people, and in some instances, may even grow up to three-quarters of an inch per month. The growth of scalp hair occurs more rapidly between the ages of 15 and 30, and declines sharply between 50 and 60. Scalp hair grows faster in women than in men.

Hair growth is also influenced by:
1) Seasons of the year.
2) Nutrition and hormones.

Climatic conditions will affect the hair in the following ways:
1) Moisture in the air will deepen the natural wave.
2) Cold air will cause the hair to contract
3) Heat will cause the hair to swell or expand and absorb moisture.

External factors that cause hair loss/breakage: Always use a good quality hair brush and combs. Poor quality brushes and combs will scratch the scalp and damage the hair shaft. Choose brushes and combs with widely spaced and smooth tipped teeth to avoid the risk of exfoliating/damaging the cuticle, splitting the hair and scratching the scalp. Mason Pearson makes the best brushes and combs and it’s worth every dollar.

Don’t over brush your hair. Wash combs and brushes in shampoo or soap at least once a week. Do not wear a hairstyle that pull on hair and/or on the scalp, for instance a ponytail, African braiding, or bun that’s too tightly kept in place. Even frequently tugging on hair or nervously twisting may have the same outcome. Traumatizing wet hair by using hair dryers or styling wet hair can break hair. Ideally, towel-dry hair to get out the extra water and avoid frequent use of heated, rollers and hot irons.

There are many reviews as to hair loss. Excessive hair loss from all over the scalp is called diffused hair loss. It can occur for numerous reasons, all of which result from body imbalance, which in turn disturbs the normal hair growth cycle. As mentioned previously, approximately 84% of normal healthy scalp hairs are in the anagen phase of growth, 1% are in the catagen or transitional phase, and about 15% are in the telogen or resting phase

When we experience a body imbalance, such as high fever, surgery or thyroid malfunction, many of the hairs in the anagen phase are prematurely shocked into the short catagen phase, then into the telogen phase, which lasts for approximately three months, terminating with the hairs falling from the scalp. An overall effect of diffused hair loss may first be noticed about three months after the body imbalance or insult occurs.

Excessive hair loss from all over the scalp is called diffuse hair loss. Some conditions may be related to hereditary hair loss and diffuse hair loss in women. It can occur from body imbalance, which in turn disturbs the normal hair growth cycle.

Other factors that contribute to hair loss: birth control pills, anesthetics, surgery, high fever, trauma, crash diet and age. Hair loss and TR is a delicate subject, in which case you should consult with your physician.

Alopecia: There are many forms of alopecia areata. It is distinguished by its sharply defined border and by its usual beginning as a perfect circle of baldness. This may enlarge and overlap with other similar patches. It could also be trauma related; it is a disorder that in general follows psychological trauma or physical blows to the head.

Hair pulling trichotillomania: it is a compulsion to pull out one’s own hair. Mechanical straining-traction alopecia; caused by mechanical strain from flat ironing the hair tightly, or wearing the hair in a tight braid or ponytail. This type of continuous mechanical strain can eventually cause the hair to pull away from the scalp follicles. The problem is multiplied during the TR process that is, IF the chemical reforming solution #1 touches the scalp.

Diffused hair loss can be classified as either “temporary” _ will improve naturally in due time”. Or “continuing” _ until cause is eliminated. Temporary loss could result from surgery, prolonged body temperature over 103 degrees Fahrenheit, the commencement of taking certain drugs, the cessation of taking certain drugs (particularly some types of oral contraceptives), termination of pregnancy; or crash dieting.

Continuing loss could be caused by iron deficiency anemia; thyroid imbalances; diabetes and other endocrinal-related problems; septic foli, such as infected teeth or tonsils; poisons, such as lead and thallium; and other internal disorders. Once the internal imbalance is corrected, the hair will most likely recover.

Hair damage
In this section we look at some real-life cases of hair that is obviously not in good condition. This person's hair looks dull and lifeless. It doesn't shine, and it is obviously difficult to manage. Examining a few hairs under the microscope would reveal what has happened to it, and suggest what might be done. It is all too easy to fall into the trap of blaming the last product put on to the hair as the single cause of a problem. Much more often, hair condition is lost as a result of a combination of bad hair care products and major salon services over a long period.

Damage from hair treatments
Permanent hair straightening/TR, bleaching and dyeing, all damage the hair to some extent. Permanent hair straightening products, by its nature, disrupts the structure of the hair: it has to do so for the perm to be successful. In order to change the shape of the hair, permanent straightening agents first break the disulfide bonds that give the hair shaft its structure. The hair is then put into its new shape and 'neutralized'. Neutralization is the name given to the re-forming of the chemical bonds in their new positions, a process that fixes the hair permanently into its new shape.

The secrets of satisfactory hair straightening lie in the manufacturer's formulation of the product and the stylist's expertise in applying the neutralizing lotion after just the right length of time, so that the perm is fixed but the hair is damaged as little as possible. TRd hair should always look beautiful in spite of this deliberate 'damage'.

Bleaching and dyeing change hair structure too, because the dyes and the bleaches used have to penetrate the cuticle and get into the cortex where they have their effect. Some degree of chemical damage is unavoidable.

Cosmetic procedures do not damage the hair follicle within the scalp, and so do not cause hair loss. Only a serious chemical burn to the skin of the scalp that destroys the follicle cells can do so. Burns like this can follow indiscriminate over-use of permanent hair straightening solutions, and therefore these solutions must be handled carefully at all times.

Severe cosmetic damage
Hair that has been badly damaged by cosmetic treatments is surprisingly common. Of course, stylists and technicians are trained to examine hair before carrying out chemical treatment to determine its porosity, and whether there is any possibility of serious damage. But take an enthusiastic amateur embarking on bleaching and doing a TR without any basic knowledge or experience, and combine this with a hair dryer used on its hottest setting and a flat iron set at 180 degrees Celsius: you have a recipe for disaster.

Perm damage
The TR process inexpertly applied is probably the most damaging chemical treatment that hairdressers see. If the cuticle scales on the hair have been lifted up and separated from each other they will never return to normal, and as soon as a comb passes over them they may break off. The cuticle may be completely stripped off, revealing the cortex underneath. This too is now exposed to weathering, and will probably not survive unbroken for long.

When a new client walks into a salon, the hairdresser never knows what problems are going to face them. A quick assessment http://www.verticalsinhair.com/hairform.shtml reveals whether the client is Caucasian, African, or Asian descent: all these characteristics interact with each other. And then, what is the past history of this hair? Has it been straightened or bleached, or possibly both? No two clients are the same. Life in a salon is never dull!

From straight forward styling to elaborate perms, from a temporary tint to a platinum bleach, all these processes depend on changing part of the structure of hair. The stylists and technicians who have to apply them are expected to have a thorough understanding of hair structure, the hair growth cycle and the continuing care of hair. They need a working knowledge of the disorders of the hair and scalp, the chemistry of hair care products and the ways in which they protect the hair, and the science that underlies the various cosmetic procedures.

Just as a doctor takes a 'history' of a new patient in the surgery, so the stylist looks at the history of a client's hair and examines its condition, in particular whether there is evidence that it has been chemically treated previously. The doctor can only decide what can be done for the patient once that history is known and understood: in the same way, the most expert stylist can only decide what is or is not possible after that examination has been made.

Whether or not a perm will 'take' well depends on the basic nature of the hair, its past history of chemical treatments, if any, and the skill of the technician or stylist. Hair that has had a long history of straightening, perhaps combined with tinting or bleaching, may have become so damaged as to be near the limit of what it will tolerate.

It is imperative to do proper consultation, but unfortunately the majority of stylists doing a TR process ask clients to send a picture of their hair, or the stylist just glances at the hair and decides; Oh, okay TR is okay for you. This is very wrong. Besides the chemical touching the scalp, there are many other important factors that can have detrimental impact on the hair and hair follicle.

What are my opinions about re-TR’ing hair to "fix" 90-degree bends?

Definitely a big NO for this situation! Re-TRing the 90 degree bends can even make the situation worse and can accelerate the breakage potential. If you miss-iron the hair and form a bend or get a bend from applying the product to the scalp which can damage the follicle and cause severe breakage, the best thing to do is give the client a deep conditioning to minimize the breakage. The best scenario would be to consider the TR when the hair has grown out or until the hair has been deep conditioned numerous times to bring the hair back to a more healthy state. Protein and moisturizing hair treatments minimize the breakage of a bad perm/TR.

The perming process
The hair is first washed and then the TR solution is applied to the hair. Because the lotion is alkaline the scales of the cuticle open slightly, allowing the lotion to flow under the cuticle and into the cortex. Here it reacts with the keratin of the cortex, breaking some of the disulphide cross-links within and between the protein chains. The hair swells and 'softens', so that it can stretch to take up its new shape.

After a while the TR solution is thoroughly rinsed away and the hair is now ready for the thermal process. Once this is done, a neutralizing lotion is applied. This re-forms the broken cross-links, which makes the hair harden into its new, straight shape. This stage is the key to a successful perm: failure to rinse and neutralize properly can lead to many problems, including scalp irritation and damage to the structure of the hair shaft.

Perm shock
Once the TR solution has been put on, the hair is in a very vulnerable condition. The keratin is softened and greatly swollen, particularly during rinsing, the cortex is in the process of being chemically changed, and the cuticle may have been slightly damaged. At this point every possible care is needed to protect the hair from any unwanted change in conditions.

For example, sudden temperature changes can damage the softened keratin to such an extent that the hair may break down completely. A story is told about a lady who was having a TR one winter's day. The temperature outside was well below freezing, although in the warm salon it was around 22 °C. The perming solution had already been applied when suddenly the lady glimpsed in the mirror a friend of hers walking by in the street. Impulsively, she rushed outside to greet her. The horrified hairdresser had to chase after her and bring her back indoors, where she set to work to re-equilibrate the client's head by wrapping hot towels around it to get the temperature back up again.

After perming

Even though the perming process seems complete when the client has left the salon, the hair continues to form new bonds for two or three days. It is important that the hair should not be shampooed during those few days: shampooing may interrupt this 'curing' process and spoil the carefully constructed curls, or even lead to hair breakage.

Problems in perming/TR and straightening
In expert hands, TR can create wonderful effects. And it is a tribute to the skill of stylists and technicians that so many TRs are successful and attractive, despite all the complexity of the chemistry and science of TR’ing. Unfortunately, not all hair is suitable for TR. The table below shows some problems that can arise with TR.

1) Although some of the disulphide linkages re­form during neutralization, a proportion fails to do so and remain broken. The hair is thereby weakened.

2) Where the cuticle scales fail to close up tightly again after TR, the hair is left with a roughened surface and breaks more quickly.

3) Incorrect application of the TR step #1, hair straightening solutions can dissolve the hair fibres or lead to breakage, usually quite close to the scalp. This kind of breakage almost never happens on the same day as TR. It is believed to be the result of either over-straightening/over-process or poor neutralization.

In the case of heredity hair loss, there is little you can do. The client should be informed that false hope and good money must not be ill spent on products or useless methods which claim to grow hair.

If the client takes a medication which could possibly cause the hair loss, the best recommendation is to return to the physician for consultation. A little research work on your part is advisable also. It should be noted here, that many times falling hair will often end in spontaneous recovery.

The scalp is constructed similar to the skin elsewhere on the human body. However, larger and deeper follicles are present on the scalp to accommodate the longer hair of the head.

There is no way to tell with the naked eye if the hair is falling due to chemical services. Evident disorders can only be seen by viewing the hair under a polarized light. For this, you need to see a Trichologist. It helps determine the hair bulb’s stage and whether it is in a transitional quiescent stage, active stage and to a certain extent and whether it is a chemical disorder/damage due to TR. It even shows whether the hair is falling due to induced alopecia.

There are other classifications of hair loss. For instance, some of the other issues one must consider are: 1) Do you have a suppressed menstruation? 2) Are you experiencing menopause? 3) Do you have excessive cramping at the onset of menstruation? 4) Do you experience excessive discharge during menstruation?

Pregnancy related post-partum alopecia. This is temporary type of hair loss often noted two to three month after termination of a pregnancy. It can last from three months to a year, averaging about six months. The hair loss will be more noticeable in some women than others. In fact, some women have noted that the amount of loss and duration of the hair loss differed with each pregnancy.

Pregnancy and TR. Typically, pregnant women's hormones fluctuate quite a bit during pregnancy and really don't normalize until after nursing is completed. Because hormones can cause some client’s hair to be very resistant to chemicals, I caution people to wait until after nursing. It can be done, but there are certain things you need to know. Please read my daughter’s post here.

Another thing that most pregnant women are aware of, normally the hair sheds quite a bit after birth and sometimes after nursing. It's generally assumed that the hair does not shed as much during the pregnancy, therefore getting a little thicker. After wards, the hair returns to its normal thickness, basically shedding off all the hair that didn't get shed in 9+ months.

If you straighten/TR your hair, and then you start shedding a lot of hair, I wouldn't worry! I wouldn't think it was the chemical straightener/TR at this point, but the natural shedding due to hormone balancing. Other than that, I have no real solid facts. You'll have to decide on your own.

Hair loss is a delicate subject and in no way a stylist or a Doctor attempt or imply any type of medical diagnosis, but is merely trying to aid in determining whether the loss of hair can be attributed to heredity, to internal medications, nutritional deficiencies, hormone problems, TR problems and/or other factors. The dermatologists just seem to have so little information about hair that they just stick to what they know. Most of the answer you might get from a dermatologist about my TR hair loss is "I don't know", "it could be that", "that's possible," nothing definite at all.

Armed with the language, we educate ourselves on certain subjects where we learn the fundamentals and disciplines related to hair. When we find a subject appealing, we want to learn more than just the basics, more than the fundamentals. We learn the disciplines – the proper mechanics. And we discipline ourselves to do it correctly. In essence, in order to master the subject, we do whatever it takes to own the information.

So, you say to yourself: “Where do I go from here?” I understand the language, and now I know how to take better care and to create beautiful hair, based on hair that is in optimum condition…simple, isn’t it?

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